Modernize project

[bbannier]

This PR contains a number of cleanups of the project.

• Move most project config from setup.py to pyproject.toml: with this one can use modern tools like e.g., rye or hatch to manage dev setups for this project
• Move formatting/linting to ruff/ruff-format: we have already done this for a number of other projects
• Activate additional lints. These seemed overall non-intrusive to me and with low rate of false positives (ruff could also fix most of them automatically). This list could be expanded, but I stopped here.
• Misc. cleanups