Development installation/contributing docs updates

[aldenks]

As I'm getting up to speed on development I'll update this PR with any polish/smoothing on documentation I run into.

Per @d-v-b's suggestion I'll also be keeping track of pain points and see if there's ways to improve them via the new hatch setup.

[jhamman]

@aldenks - I wanted to also call out that @rabernat and others recently created this readme for v3 development: https://github.com/zarr-developers/zarr-python/blob/v3/README-v3.md