dactyl-keyboard
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tshort
General design / building discussion
Is there a way, with the current parameterization, to shift the vertically-staggered columns outward for ncol > 4? It seems if I set the number of columns to 7, I get two columns outside of the pinky and one column inside of the index finger, but I'd like it to be the other way around, two near index and one near the pinky. I couldn't figure this out after looking over the code once or twice.
Allowing more inward columns is a good idea, @tim-tx. Pointer-finger keys are much nicer than yet more pinky keys.
The current code does not provide a way to do this. It'll take some tweaks to incorporate this feature. I'm not sure how many places in the code this would touch.
https://github.com/tim-tx/dactyl-keyboard/blob/8b95c6990a6405c8c837e65bbbd5e87b71d93371/things/right-5x7-shifted.stl For now I fudged on the thumb offset, but I added a shift parameter that moves the two z-offset columns and the thumb cluster outward. I also lowered the cluster a little, there was a corner sticking way up after changing the tenting and doing the shift. Do you see any problems with printing this, or with usability of the new geometry?
That's awesome, @tim-tx! 👍
I don't see any problems with printing this. Usability looks fine, too. I might try to reduce the overall height as much as you can. As it is, the keyboard is rather tall, so I tried to cut down on the height as much as possible (it shaves a bit off the printing, too).
I also like your code changes. If the code still results in the same model with your new offset zeroed out, please consider a PR to my original branch.
If you print this, please let me know how it turns out. I might try printing one to make as a giveaway.
As you're probably expecting, the QMK firmware will need some work to handle the extra keys.
Signature Plastics G20's:
https://pimpmykeyboard.com/g20-blank-keycap-sets/
They are especially nice for the thumb keys on this keyboard because of the angles.
I am currently bending diodes on the second half of a 5x6 set. Thank you for sharing your things files. I have the first half running on a barely modified Nyquist qmk keymap. Would you mind if I submitted a config for this board to the main qmk repo?
Sure. I don't think they accept configs into their main keyboards directory for DIY-type boards. I thought they had another location for that, but I couldn't find it with a quick glance. Found it: I think it needs to go under keyboards/handwired.
I'm using my 5x6 dactyl manuform now. I have the halves working over I2C and am working up the config for the QMK handwired directory. Thank you for sharing your efforts and making it possible!
I have an issue getting my kailh red fitting. It seems the hole is correct but I need the little tabs on the other sides. Any advice or easy way to change this? Or are they designed to provide the friction fit and I file them to size?
@twistedsanity, that's too bad. One of the things I've liked about Matt's original design is how nicely the keys fit. You could try modifying the dimensions/positions of the holes:
https://github.com/tshort/dactyl-keyboard/blob/master/src/dactyl_keyboard/dactyl.clj#L76-L90
It might be tricky. You'd probably want to print some test objects with just one key hole.
Your right the keys fit perfectly for the square but the nubs just don't work with mine, editing the code is a first for me, but I will give it a go. Thank you for your help.
I have a set of the 4x5 printed from the things directory, but the key holes seem small, for mx, or kailh either one. The 5x6 fit so well that I'm confused, was that size adjusted for different switches, or did the print go awry?
I suspect a print issue. Nothing was changed. The 4x5 was my starting point.
Are those thumb cluster key caps 1.5u?
Also, what material did you print with?
I cannot find a genuine Arduino Pro-Micro, where would you recommend finding one or what would you recommend for alternatives? Do you know why the pre-generated models are full of holes in their manifolds and where i might find ones without holes? I have been unable to get clojure and leningen working so i cannot generate my own. I am specifically looking to print a pair of 6x6's to build for work.
Mine weren't "genuine Arduino". They were a generic clone. I think I used the "KOOKYE 3PCS Pro Micro ATmega32U4" from Amazon.
I remember some 3d printer software complaining about non-manifold issues, but others are fine. I'm not sure what the issue is. What software are you using to print?
Do you use something like special keycaps on the home row to find the correct typing position? I can't find the position without taking a look.
@tshort I'm using Slic3r Prusa edition, and the model is visibly full of holes, attempting to slice it does not produce a viable model. Also, would the firmware work with the normal arduino micro? I would like to buy genuine parts for my keyboard.
@DurekuRyuu, I have has similar issues slicing the original dactyl-keyboard with the Slic3r Prusa edition. In the end I gave up and used a different slicer. https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-cura-software
As for the firmware, it should work fine with both the genuine pro-micro and generic clones.
@matt1003, Excellent, i would have tried that, but really liked the features of Slic3r Prusa edition, so I downloaded an Autodesk Netfab trial and ran it through the repair function. This ended up repairing the part to the degree necessary to run it through Slic3r Prusa edition.
I'm glad that the firmware should work on both generic and genuine boards. Thank you for your help.
Re https://github.com/tshort/dactyl-keyboard/issues/2#issuecomment-358963634, I had some pretty poor results with switch hole sizing. Cherry MX form factors didn't fit at all. The switch holes were about 2mm too small both in width and height.
The left hand side was printed with a Prusa mk3 i3. Are there any tips as to improving print fidelity?
I've had good luck with upside-down prints. For me, that helped prevent curl-up on the walls, but it might also help with keyhole sizing.
@fi0 15% works fine, as long as you have internal support with your slicing program even 5% or no support should be fine. I've printed 1 6x6 in PLA and one in PETG and I highly recommend PETG over PLA, but PLA will still work well. @tshort Why not use brims? i used 5mm ones and they worked great. I was printing on PEI though, so i may have different results.
I'm pretty new to 3D printing. I tried a brim on a Makerbot, but the sides still turned up. It doesn't have a heated bed. My makerspace also has printers with heated beds, but I had problems with clogging on them, so I never had a successful print.
Quick question, from what the usage is here my intuition says I should be able to swap the Rj9 out for a 3.5mm TRRS cable instead. Is there anything that might not be possible there? Also very good write up and wiring diagrams, thanks heaps for those!
