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French grades for sport routes under SWE context

Open morbult opened this issue 1 year ago • 3 comments

I would like thecrag to use French grades for sport routes and sport crags under the SWE grade context.

As far as I know all sport routes in Sweden are graded using French grades, and all gyms use French grades for rope climbing. I have guide books of three areas in Sweden (Göteborg, Stockholm and Mälardalen) and they all use French for sport routes. Two of them even use it for trad routes and only write the Swedish grade in parentheses. See evidence at the end. All in all, I'd say most climbers here are much more familiar with French grades than Swedish grades, and many sport climbers are probably not accustomed to the Swedish grading scale at all, which is why I think it's not user friendly to have sport crags on thecrag displaying grade summaries in Swedish grades. image Of course, there are a lot of all-trad areas and mainly-trad areas which I still think should be displaying grade summaries in Swedish grades on thecrag, because Swedish grades are used for trad and mixed.

thecrag currently does not expect French grades for sport routes under the SWE context, which means their grade will be displayed as either of these two cases, both of which look quite messy

  • FR:5c, FR:5c+, FR:6a etc. (keeping the route's grade context SWE)
  • {FR} 5c, {FR} 5c+, {FR} 6a etc. (changing the route's grade context to FR)

Expected outcome

  • Grade summary of an area with SWE grade context to use French grades if the majority of the routes in that area are sport routes, otherwise use Swedish grades.
  • Sport route grades in an area with SWE grade context to be displayed as 5c, 5c+, 6a etc.

Evidence for sport routes in Sweden using French grades

image Göteborg guide: French grades for sport routes, Swedish grades for trad and mixed.

image Stockholm guide: French grades for all routes, Swedish grades in parentheses for trad and mixed routes. 53 and 54 are sport, 55 is trad.

image Mälardalen guide: French grades for all routes, Swedish grades in parentheses for trad and mixed routes.

Are there counterexamples or is this a general rule for all of Sweden? I don't know since I haven't climbed in any other parts of the country. I need help from other climbers to confirm or disprove this rule. Please make a comment here if you have experience from other areas of Sweden.

morbult avatar Oct 30 '23 16:10 morbult