homekit-ratgdo
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ratgdo
Troubleshooting Sec 1.0
I've got a ~2001 Liftmaster opener and some time ago I bought an 888LM so that it could work with the Home Bridge. Well, Chamberlain locked everyone out of the web API and the HK functionality of the Home Bridge is flaky, so I decided to try RatGDO and this firmware. I've been taking some time to catalog my experience.
I actually have two 888LMs and an 889LM to try. One of the 888LMs has a MFG date in 2013. That one failed many years ago and I got the 2nd one as a free replacement. But I'm handy with a soldering iron, so I replace the two bad supercaps and got the first one working again. I bought an 889LM to see if it handled RatGDO any better.
In all cases, the door functionality - condition sense and operation - works fine. However, after working the door a couple or three times, the panel stops working with symptoms that indicate that the supercaps on board are insufficiently charged. Let it sit for a couple minutes and it will beep and go back online again. This was not an issue before RatGDO, so I am wondering if this is an endemic hardware issue.
When using an 888LM, the light button on the panel works, but light control from RatGDO or HK can only turn the light on. Sensing the light status does not work.
When using the 889LM, light control doesn't work at all, and I also cannot pair my car's HomeLink button (which works fine with the 888LM). Also, with the 889LM, on an average of once a day the door would just open on its own for no apparent reason.
I honestly don't know how many of these issues have anything to do with firmware, hardware or what not. In the case of both 888LMs, I do know that prior to RatGDO everything worked completely normally. I have not tried the 889LM without RatGDO, but I suspect it would also work just fine.
to me its hardware issue... i only have 889LM wired to my GDO (old craftsman one) and it just works
i suspect wiring
nsayer, i would get it all working without any RATGDO connected get it stable which version of RATGDO board you have, the one with the 3 pin connector that you connect to the gdo? i think thats 2.53i
i have 2.5i, which uses orange connector block, that i just connected 3 wires to the GDO at the GDO's terminals and then im powering up the ratgdo with a usb wall adaptor to supply 5v
My RatGDO is the latest one - 2.53i. My opener has 3 terminals on it, and I matched those up to the 3 wires from the 3 wire pigtail. I then connected the 88xLM and obstruction sensors to the push-terminals as per the wiring diagram. It seems pretty straightforward to me.
The wiring before was that the obstruction sensors were connected between white and black and the 888LM between red and white. The wires helpfully had black and red stripes on them so that you could easily tell them apart. Before the RatGDO it was working for over a decade (apart from when the supercaps died on the first 888LM).
You have a good solid 5v supply on the board?You might need to reach out to Paul the hardware designer…Maybe disconnect all the wires from ratgdo board… get it all working just 88xlm and gdoThen connect the pigtail wires in to the gdo terminals without doing passthruThat’s what I’m doingMitch Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 20, 2024, at 9:55 PM, Nick Sayer @.***> wrote: My RatGDO is the latest one - 2.53i. My opener has 3 terminals on it, and I matched those up to the 3 wires from the 3 wire pigtail. I then connected the 88xLM and obstruction sensors to the push-terminals as per the wiring diagram. It seems pretty straightforward to me. The wiring before was that the obstruction sensors were connected between white and black and the 888LM between red and white. The wires helpfully had black and red stripes on them so that you could easily tell them apart. Before the RatGDO it was working for over a decade (apart from when the supercaps died on the first 888LM).
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Ok, I wired everything to the back of the opener (getting 4 wires on the white terminal was an adventure). The behavior is unchanged. It seems like the whole system is having a lot of trouble keeping the supercaps in the 889LM charged. It only takes a couple of operations for it to go back to yellow+red blinking. When it IS working, though, the light control button on the 889LM works, but HomeKit can only toggle the light state when told to flip the light from off to on. The current light state is not reported. I will try to disconnect the RatGDO and see what the behavior is.
4 wires in white terminal?Not sure I followAt most there is 2 wires in the control panel terminals(each)One goes to wall panel, one goes to ratgdoLeve the obstruction ratgdo wire disconnectsd for now…So just 2 wires from ratgdo land on terminals of gdo… control and groundAlso tell me about how the ratgdo gets powerSent from my iPhoneOn Mar 21, 2024, at 1:06 AM, Nick Sayer @.***> wrote: Ok, I wired everything to the back of the opener (getting 4 wires on the white terminal was an adventure). The behavior is unchanged. It seems like the whole system is having a lot of trouble keeping the supercaps in the 889LM charged. It only takes a couple of operations for it to go back to yellow+red blinking. When it IS working, though, the light control button on the 889LM works, but HomeKit can only toggle the light state when told to flip the light from off to on. The current light state is not reported. I will try to disconnect the RatGDO and see what the behavior is.
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This GDO has 3 screw terminals - red, white and black. The two pairs of wires from the obstruction sensors each go to white and black, and the red and white wire from the 88xLM go to the red and white. Then there's a red, white and black wire from RatGDO - so 4 wires on white, 2 on red and 3 on black.
GDOs newer than mine have 4 push terminals - red, white, white and black. But not this one.
5 volts for RatGDO are coming from an old iPhone sugar cube supply through an A to micro-B cable.
ah, that is an old one.... well try just ratgdo, connected to the red and white, leave the black disconnected (obstuction sensor) white is the common ground on the gdo but you might need help from paul, he should know about the HW side, i looked at schematic. to me the rat shouldn't draw much current at all (assuming it built right)
and it sits idle, if you do nothing. ie it doesn't transmit anything on the control wire, only listens.
I will admit that in my moments of despair I browse the Genie website and consider replacements.
@nsayer , i dont think Paul put out an offical one, but on git hub there was this stuff at https://github.com/Kaldek/rat-ratgdo