docs: update deimos ibc channel for osmosis

[conorsch]

We had a few chain halts on the v0.68.x release series. As of v0.69.0, "channel-0" is the correct value for relaying to Osmosis testnet. Added mention of the slick new pcli query ibc channels to the docs.

Also overhauled the dev docs for how to test IBC functionality interactively, since that knowledge has mostly been communicated via pairing session, but not yet fully written down. We no longer use rly, neither for running relayer instances nor for ad-hoc CLI transfers. Instead, we can use hermes for both roles.

Linked out to wiki docs on the high-churn hermes relayer config steps, since we're updating those frequently. Therefore review should also include eyes on https://github.com/penumbra-zone/penumbra/wiki/Updating-Hermes

[conorsch]

TIL about https://github.com/penumbra-zone/penumbra/pull/3906. We haven't shipped that for 68 yet, but probably should. Regardless, this docs PR should be updated to use that new functionality, because that's the current state of play.

[conorsch]

This grew a bit but is now an accurate and rather comprehensive description of how we're interacting with the IBC functionality to evaluate behavior. Not included is mention of Noble interactive testing steps, but mention of the Noble Hermes config is there.