olm3ca
For older models - Model LM40SAMFHD700AG25WV
Here is the technical manual
I believe this is one of the earlier models that requires a specific cable and controller.
This controller and cable set work and provide VGA, DVI and HDMI inputs for a Pi, Laptop, etc. I only replaced the LVDS cable and let the rest of the screen remain powered by design. I have yet to add the sound to the new board but the connections are there.
Here it is powered up with my laptop:
https://imgur.com/gallery/e8AqDlA
With MagicMirror2 running on a Pi4
https://i.imgur.com/MrhZ6gI.jpeg
Hope this helps everyone out!
This is excellent news, thank you @avitascmor. I'll add this to the instructions today! Really great you found that controller board, thanks for sharing.
@avitascmor I ordered the controller. I was wondering if you could send some pictures of the inside, how you hooked it up and drew power etc. Thanks so much in advance. I am excited to get this mirror working again.
@avitascmor Great job setting this up! I would also appreciate some pictures or any guidance you have on setting up the LM40SAMFHD700AG25WV panel. I have a "Model One" with this panel and am waiting on delivery of the controller.
I would assume you just need to connect LVDS and provide 12V power to the new board, using an external plug. It also looks like you can connect audio in a similar way to how I did it with the Vizio board. @grhill424 did you get yours working yet?
Yes on the audio that should not be an issue. The power I wanted to see if I could draw from internal anywhere vs. an external adapter. The inverter/backlight just works fine as powered.
From: olm3ca @.> Sent: Thursday, March 7, 2024 2:12:27 PM To: olm3ca/mirror @.> Cc: Chris Moore @.>; Mention @.> Subject: Re: [olm3ca/mirror] For older models - Model LM40SAMFHD700AG25WV (Issue #8)
I would assume you just need to connect LVDS and provide 12V power to the new board, using an external plug. It also looks like you can connect audio in a similar way to how I did it with the Vizio board. @grhill424https://github.com/grhill424 did you get yours working yet?
— Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHubhttps://github.com/olm3ca/mirror/issues/8#issuecomment-1984246767, or unsubscribehttps://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AZRMOBDPWJHLDQA5RDSNBS3YXC3ZXAVCNFSM6AAAAABDZQMEN6VHI2DSMVQWIX3LMV43OSLTON2WKQ3PNVWWK3TUHMYTSOBUGI2DMNZWG4. You are receiving this because you were mentioned.Message ID: @.***>
@olm3ca i am still waiting on delivery of the controller. I will update once it arrives and I (hopefully) get it up and working.
I'm having trouble getting my LM40SAMFHD700AG25WV Mirror into initial setup mode. I can't find a button to place it into factory reset. Externally visible, I have a power input, ethernet, USB, microphones, and a power switch. Pics of my mirror. https://imgur.com/a/KXOlqAa The only internal buttons I see are power and volume up/down, all on the scalar board. I did hold the power button down for ~10 and ~20 seconds. Both attempts resulted in the mirror rebooting after releasing the button. It then boots up and connects to my home wifi like before - it doesn't appear to have reset. I also tried holding each volume button ~10 seconds independently with no effect. Didn't try any combo button presses.
I thought as it is android based it will be either hold down volume up or down and keep it pressed while you press Power. Keep the volume pressed until the boot process starts.
From: Jeremy Fields @.> Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2024 4:40:20 PM To: olm3ca/mirror @.> Cc: Chris Moore @.>; Mention @.> Subject: Re: [olm3ca/mirror] For older models - Model LM40SAMFHD700AG25WV (Issue #8)
I'm having trouble getting my LM40SAMFHD700AG25WV Mirror into initial setup mode. I can't find a button to place it into factory reset. Externally visible, I have a power input, ethernet, USB, microphones, and a power switch. Pics of my mirror. https://imgur.com/a/KXOlqAa The only internal buttons I see are power and volume up/down, all on the scalar board. I did hold the power button down for ~10 and ~20 seconds. Both attempts resulted in the mirror rebooting after releasing the button. It then boots up and connects to my home wifi like before - it doesn't appear to have reset. I also tried holding each volume button ~10 seconds independently with no effect. Didn't try any combo button presses.
— Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHubhttps://github.com/olm3ca/mirror/issues/8#issuecomment-2008089882, or unsubscribehttps://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AZRMOBDO6JDOHXMKOPBGKN3YZCPDJAVCNFSM6AAAAABDZQMEN6VHI2DSMVQWIX3LMV43OSLTON2WKQ3PNVWWK3TUHMZDAMBYGA4DSOBYGI. You are receiving this because you were mentioned.Message ID: @.***>
I've tried a few different combinations. A lot of the factory reset websites have you shutting it off first. I can't really turn it off. I can pull power, but shutting it down has been troublesome. I can reboot it and then try the Power + Volume Up combo which makes it switch to a "Update Complete!" display (see imgur link). It stays here until I reboot again. After that reboot it looks normal, and connects to my Wi-Fi as usual. I don't what software version was on there before but it's currently showing v.1.20.0. If I leave it in this post-boot state, the backlight eventually dims. I can't restore the backlight with the volume buttons, only another reboot. Holding the power button just reboots after about 15 seconds. Holding Power + Volume Down results in what appears to be a constant reboot state. The backlight comes on and off, I saw the Mirror logo pop up once very briefly, and then the backlight just continues to cycle. This continues until I release the buttons. https://imgur.com/a/Vu8vdUI
I bought this controller and am getting it setup. It seems like there should be a better way to add power to the controller and screen than using the old board.
I’ve had no time to tap into the voltages to see if the LVDS board could be powered from the existing power supply to negate an external one. That would be my preferred option. Should be able to tap into something to power a Pi also so it’s all self contained in the mirror.
From: Matt Wetherington @.> Sent: Friday, March 22, 2024 11:44:13 PM To: olm3ca/mirror @.> Cc: Chris Moore @.>; Mention @.> Subject: Re: [olm3ca/mirror] For older models - Model LM40SAMFHD700AG25WV (Issue #8)
I bought this controller and am getting it setup. It seems like there should be a better way to add power to the controller and screen than using the old board.
— Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHubhttps://github.com/olm3ca/mirror/issues/8#issuecomment-2016331906, or unsubscribehttps://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AZRMOBHFLGONSYMKPIY4FOLYZT3A3AVCNFSM6AAAAABDZQMEN6VHI2DSMVQWIX3LMV43OSLTON2WKQ3PNVWWK3TUHMZDAMJWGMZTCOJQGY. You are receiving this because you were mentioned.Message ID: @.***>
Here is the power supply for anyone smarter than me:
https://www.posturk.com/B2bDosyalar/Nesne/MP118TX.pdf
I was finally able to get mine into what looks like a reset mode where the backlight stays on. I disconnected the Wi-Fi RF connector from the board. The mirror was previously on my network and would rejoin when booted. I've tried resetting it (see above). I also tried through the app, but we cancelled the service so it wouldn't even let me log in with my account since my wife was the primary owner. She has since deleted the app. I didn't try the app any further. I'm not sure if the above reboot plus Power & Volume Up combo contributed? With the RF disconnected, it boots up, tries to find the wifi, can't and gives me the setup prompt and just stays there in it's backlit glory that I've been searching for. I had it up for 5-10 mins. I'll try longer and reply if I see different results. I tried to connect to the Mirror's setup Wi-Fi but I don't see it; disconnecting the antenna seems to have either turned it off or dropped the signal so it couldn't possibly connect again.
Glad you figured that part out, @jeremy-fields - keep us posted on the rest of the setup. For the repo, what steps would you suggest for other users with the same panel for how to keep the backlight on?
I wasn’t sure how to get the Mirror into an initial setup mode without the button, so I tried a lot of Android rest options. I’m not sure if they contributed, but the key for me seems to be getting the Mirror off the network.
- Reset the Mirror to initial state through the app or by pressing the blue button if installed.
- If you cannot complete the above step and the Mirror is connected to Wi-Fi, remove it from your network by either kicking it off from the router, changing the Wi-Fi password, or removing the RF cable connecting the Wi-Fi antenna to the mainboard (RF cable removal may be irreversible).
I ran it for just over an hour yesterday and the backlight stayed on the whole time. I have a Pi and I'm currently waiting on a new Mainboard to arrive.
@jeremy-fields thanks! Added some additional details to the instructions. Let us know how it goes when the mainboard arrives.
Build complete
I pulled out the original microphone board, usb access, video board, and speaker amplifier. I installed the new board from eBay, a Raspberry Pi 4, and some connectors. I left the camera board and lens installed to prevent an obvious hole visible from the front (could also tape it off but this was easy). I also left the Power Supply and Backlight Inverter in place.
Mounting the boards was a little bit of a challenge. I used two posts from the speaker amp and two 0.5" sticky mounts on the Pi. I had to mount the Pi to a mounting board first.
I used 4 shorter sticky mounts (0.25") for the new monitor board. The LVDS cord length and PSU cord lengths limit placement.
I added a USB-A port to the top of the mirror for the Pi. There was a USB micro there originally, but I wanted something easy to plug into so I swapped it out with this. From where my Pi was mounted, I had to run a USB extension cord to it.
Since I only have one USB-A external connection, I bought this hub to connect my keyboard and mouse to. It's nicer to be in front of the mirror when configuring it versus using VNC since the monitor is turned sideways (the mouse is hard on VNC).
I drilled a 1" hole in the power/network/connector box in the right spot to add a USB-C connection for powering the Pi. I used this bit from Home Depot. I added this part for a USB-C external port. They make USB-C and USB-A combos, which I tried, but my drill hole was too small so I just used the USB-C bulkhead connector. It's pretty full down there, so maybe not a bad choice.
I was a little worried about the boards being so close to the cover so I added some Kapton type tape. Might be overkill. I chose this which came with way more than I needed.
The new board can power the backlight if you connect the wiring per the included instructions. I did that and was able to completely remove the old board. I wrapped all the new wires near the Power Supply with 80 degree C electrical tape. The original wires had a coating over them with 80C listed on it. I originally tried to power the video board through the power plug, but wiring it direct seems to be the better choice. I did have to move some pins around to get the original power switch to work versus always being powered on (removed loopback wire on new cable, installed switch wires in its place).
The backlight is probably too bright for having this in the bedroom, so I bought a managed power outlet. I like the Kasa plugs so I bought this. You can schedule it to turn on and off at certain times.
Wi-Fi might be hard with the Pi inside, so I opted for a Ethernet connection. I haven't sorted out audio yet. The video board has audio connectors that are smaller than anything I pulled off, so pinning has been difficult. I did rig something up at one point, and it sounded good, but the wires don't really stay connected so I removed it for now. I might come back to it later. The new video board came with a control board, but I removed it. You'd need to run it outside somehow and I don't think you really need it.
Now to figuring out how I want the software configured.
Pictures: https://imgur.com/a/PxCpFC0
@jeremy-fields fantastic work, so glad to see it working! I'll add a how-to section for your board with the notes you provided. A lot of folks with this model of the Mirror will benefit from this.
@jeremy-fields Many thanks for this fantastic write up. I am following your guide closely, making a few little mods along the way. I have a couple of questions, if you don't mind... Firstly, I'm curious on the repinning you had to do for hooking up the power to the board. I'm assuming this was to connect the external power switch as everything else on my board seems to match with the instructions you included. Did you have to do any other repinning? Secondly - did you get anywhere with the audio? I'd really appreciate it if you took any pictures of the rig up you made so that I might start there and see if I can troubleshoot it.
There is no reason to re-pin unless you want to use that power switch. The standard loopback cable keeps the board in a switched-on mode. I wanted it, so I re-pinned it. It's probably not worth the hassle if you plan to turn it on & off some other way. I don't think any re-pinning is necessary unless you want that switch.
I stopped looking at the audio for now. I'm running magicmirror and it's full screen. There may be an audio/video module but I haven't looked for one. What I tried was to splice the old speaker cords into a longer wire with pins (leftover cords I pulled off), then force/connect that to the speaker connector on the new board. It worked, but the cables were heavy and pulled off easily since I just had them slid on. With a proper connector, it seems like an easy add. I don't know what connector to buy. There's also a headphone jack (says EARPHONE IN on the back) if you want to try to splice a cord for that. Here's some pics: https://imgur.com/a/ltg9ejt
First off -- big thank you to everyone on this thread. It's been an extremely fun project to build off of, including all of the exploration upfront on the board to purchase and various setups.
@minihadroncollider I ended up with a repinned solution myself for both power and for audio that has worked nicely for the time being. I am still waiting on my smart plug to turn the Pi and display on/off, so right now I end up manually shutting down the pi and flipping off the display, but it works well and I didn't have to bore any additional holes in the Mirror casing which I was reticent to do.
For audio, the pics from @jeremy-fields are great and show exactly what the connector is, what the pins are mapped to, and generally what female connector you would need (mini micro jst). I eneded up going with repurposing two cables, splicing them to the speaker cables, and repinning the two cables (4 pin connections) to a connector from a mini micro JST 2.0 connector with 2mm/0.078 inch pitch. This ended up working nicely and get great sound without needing to solder or having the connections fall out.
For power, I went back and forth on this, but really wanted to power the pi from the main power supply in the Mirror. I went down a rabbit hole and there's still some low power warnings on my pi 5 about peripherals even after I used a multimeter to verify I was getting 5.18v at the GPIO pins on the pi, but it is working really well so far and I haven't noticed any issues in performance on both the pi or the wifi adapter (more below). To get this to work, I bought Dupont and JST connectors and a crimper to create solid connections to the pi GPIO pins, 2 5v and 2 ground connectors from the main power supply board. The board is very clear on where the cables need to be pinned for each connection.
For my board, I went with a slightly different version than what was originally discussed on the thread because I wanted USB-C / DP / HDMI for my connections vs VGA / DVI / HDMI. They're nearly identical other than the connections, so the audio pinning was similar.
For internet, I hooked up the wired ethernet from the pi to the cable / port already on the Mirror, but I really didn't want to run a wire to the ethernet port. Since the Mirror casing is solid steel, the wifi connection was going in and out depending on the day. To solve for this, since I bought the same USB extension as mentioned above and connected it to the pi and mounted it to the top of the mirror where the previous micro-usb port was mounted, I was able to buy a nano usb wifi adapter and install the drivers really easily. Wifi is now extremely reliable, fast, and you can barely tell it's there.
For software, I am running magic mirror right now as well, but am working on how to stream workouts. There are a few solutions regarding mirroring, but nothing I have found that's a straight solution for Apple Airplay from individual apps. If anyone has a pointer or advice, I would love to hear how you solved this.
Here's some pics / descriptions of my setup: https://imgur.com/a/eJUqtcT
@jeremy-fields Many thanks for the quick reply! I will keep the power switch, so will go about repinning that. I'm glad to hear I didn't miss anything else. My plan is to run Magic Mirror on a Pi 5 (probably overkill) in kiosk orientation. I appreciate the pictures of your successful audio connection, albeit not stable. I'm sorry if that meant opening up the Mirror again!
@i3randnew Also many thanks! I'll follow your lead for the audio. I may bust out the soldering gun and heat shrink tubes to get a nice clean install. I have been worried about the wifi, so might just try what you've done as I don't want to pull more network cables in the wall cavity. Were the Ubuntu drivers that you posted suitable for the pi OS? Regarding mirroring, I had assumed that installing RPiPlay on the pi 5 would allow you to use Apple Airplay. I had read that the Magic Mirror software just defaults to the Airplay while it's in progress and then back to the Magic Mirror when stopped. I haven't set up my pi yet, though - so I'm only speaking from browsing on the matter. If you've already tried this, do let me know if you find a solution. I want my Mirror to do Magic Mirror, workouts and media (both from the pi and AirPlay/Chromecast).
Once again, many thanks to everyone here. I am only able to do a little bit on this every week after hours, so my progress is slow - but the instructions, advice and tips I've gleaned here have been invaluable. I even bought a second Mirror at a heavy discount to make a second one after this one is done.
I use uxplay for Airplay streaming and it’s excellent. I mostly use it for audio but video also works. The pi 5 should be able to handle video quite well.
On Mon, May 6, 2024 at 10:02 PM minihadroncollider @.***> wrote:
@jeremy-fields https://github.com/jeremy-fields Many thanks for the quick reply! I will keep the power switch, so will go about repinning that. I'm glad to hear I didn't miss anything else. My plan is to run Magic Mirror on a Pi 5 (probably overkill) in kiosk orientation. I appreciate the pictures of your successful audio connection, albeit not stable. I'm sorry if that meant opening up the Mirror again!
@i3randnew https://github.com/i3randnew Also many thanks! I'll follow your lead for the audio. I may bust out the soldering gun and heat shrink tubes to get a nice clean install. I have been worried about the wifi, so might just try what you've done as I don't want to pull more network cables in the wall cavity. Were the Ubuntu drivers that you posted suitable for the pi OS? Regarding mirroring, I had assumed that installing RPiPlay https://github.com/FD-/RPiPlay on the pi 5 would allow you to use Apple Airplay. I had read that the Magic Mirror software just defaults to the Airplay while it's in progress and then back to the Magic Mirror when stopped. I haven't set up my pi yet, though - so I'm only speaking from browsing on the matter. If you've already tried this, do let me know if you find a solution. I want my Mirror to do Magic Mirror, workouts and media (both from the pi and AirPlay/Chromecast).
Once again, many thanks to everyone here. I am only able to do a little bit on this every week after hours, so my progress is slow - but the instructions, advice and tips I've gleaned here have been invaluable. I even bought a second Mirror at a heavy discount to make a second one after this one is done.
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Ah, thanks! I took a look at uxplay as well -- but found the below which isn't quite what I am looking for. I've gotten AirPlay mirroring to work just fine using the RPiPlay, but I want streaming as the quality tends to suffer with display mirroring. I'd like to have the same streaming experience that AirPlay2 gives. I'll keep searching.
Originally supported only AirPlay Mirror protocol, now has added support for AirPlay Audio-only (Apple Lossless ALAC) streaming from current iOS/iPadOS clients. There is no support for Airplay2 video-streaming protocol, and none is planned.
Thanks for the audio connector @i3randnew. The build pics are cool to see too! I love the usb-wifi idea, simple and brilliant. I've been struggling with what to do if I moved mine from the location with wired network. I did find a person who solders a WiFi RF cable connector onto a Raspberry Pi. I bought one, but I'd need to move my pi to the top of the mirror where the old board had it's wifi "window".
For my USB power passthrough on the bottom, I removed the power sub-piece steel section and drilled it by itself. I didn't want to drill anything in the main structure with the monitor in it (no vibrations there). Wasn't too hard to remove and then drilling was easier, although I used a drill press which made it not scary - overkill I guess.
@minihadroncollider I had a lot of pictures, I just posted some old ones. Unrelated, I did open it up this weekend. My Pi4 was running a little hot at times. It got over 70C a couple times when I was messing with updating the magicmirror configs over and over. It functioned ok but worried me some so I added a fan and heat sink. It's never over 51C now without the fan even kicking on; the fan is programmed to come at 60C. I bought this fan from Amazon.
Fan and power panel pics https://imgur.com/a/6zGZNGR
Do this board work with [LTI400HN01]
Do this board work with LTI400HN01
I don't think so. I am trying different off-the-shelf boards. I tried this one already and got bad results shown here . Next, I plan to try one of these boards. however still not too sure which has a better chance at working.
@i3randnew and @jeremy-fields I've finally found some time to finish the project off while the family are traveling. Everything has gone to plan so far. I have the screen working with sound and the original switch turns the board on and off. Your instructions have been most helpful.
@i3randnew - do you have any more details or close up pictures on how you powered the Pi 5 from the power supply board? I have the DuPont crimper and JST connectors, but I can't work out quickly how to connect it all up - it's not something I've done before. What did you refer to for the Pi to connect the wires correctly? I see the markings on the board which are pretty clear, as you mentioned. Any advice would be appreciated as once I have that done, it's just tidying things up and then working on the MagicMirror set up.
@i3randnew - actually, I did a little research and it seems pretty self-explanatory in the end. I'll give it a shot tomorrow and see if I can get it working.
Great work everyone! I'm waiting on all my parts to come in. Excited to upgrade my current smart mirror setup with this mirror. I got one for 100$ on FB marketplace.
I'm having some issues getting account switched over to me to do the factory reset. Is it really necessary?
@minihadroncollider do you have a photo of where you connected the 5v power for the pi? I understand the power inputs on the GPIO side, but not where to connect it on the main board.
