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3D Printed Hot Swappable Keyboard

TDPHSK :: 3D Printed Hot Swappable Keyboard

I've always wanted a keyboard with the ability to hot swap keycaps with my custom layout. This is a proof of concept that uses a 3D printer to make all the necessary parts to house the keyboard, and accomplish my goals!

The TDPHSK is a 70 key keyboard in a 14 by 5 grid. It has a split layout with a slight angle to make it more comfortable to use. To make the switches hot swappable, I'm fitting Kailh sockets in the 3D printed mid layer of the keyboard. Below is a single key I've made to test the concept:

Keyboard layers

The keyboard is comprised of 3 layers: top, mid, and bottom. Each layer is subdivided in 3 more parts: left, right, and center. I did all these subdivisions because of my printer's bed size. Here is an animation of all the parts coming apart.

All the parts were designed in LibreCAD, in the keyboard-outline.dxf file. Each layer of that file is imported into the OpenSCAD file 3dkeeb.scad, and extruded to make the 3D model.

To generate the STL files for 3D printing, just run make. All files shall be created in the renders directory.

Bill of materials

As this keyboard was made in Brazil, some of the materials are Brazilian only.

  • 1x STM32F401 microcontroller: link
  • 70x 1N4148 diodes: link
  • 70x Switches & Keycaps: anything compatible with the Kailh sockets
  • 70x Kailh Sockets: link
  • 2m Insulated rigid cable: link
  • 3D printed parts: see renders

Assembly

Step 1: solder the diodes

Fit the sockets into their places and solder the diodes as shown. Try to be quick so the plastic doesn't melt.

The 3D models were designed to have a very tight fit, if it is too dificult to fit, try drilling the socket holes with a 3mm drill bit.

Step 2: solder the columns

To solder the colums:

  1. Cut the wire to length;
  2. Align the end of the wire on the first key;
  3. Mark the position of the second key with a marker;
  4. Use your favorite method to cut the insulation; I usually use an stiletto;
  5. Pull the insulation by 1–2mm, and repeat the process.

There is a small gap between the wire and the socket, but it is very easy to bridge the gap with the soldering iron. You should get something like this as a result:

Step 3: connect everything to the STM32

TODO

Step 4: configure & compile QMK

TODO

Copying

All the creative work and code portions of this project are licensed under the terms of GPL version 3.