ct-Open-Source
Can't flash OHLUX bulbs
I'm attempting to flash an OHLUX Smart WiFi LED bulb: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08CL2CKW3
Looking at the logs and searching through issues, I believe I'm running into #483. But, when I disassembled one of the bulbs and dumped the firmware, the PSK key starts with 03. I added the info to the collab document, but noticed that was for PSK identity 02. Do we need a new collab document for this identity?
Attached various logs and firmware dump: logs.zip serial-logs.txt firmware_ohlux_B08CL2CKW3.zip
I have 6 of these and 4 won't flash: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0838SW8V2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00
If you need logs, let me know
I have 6 of these and 4 won't flash: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0838SW8V2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00
If you need logs, let me know
What would be really useful is if you would run through this process: https://github.com/ct-Open-Source/tuya-convert/wiki/Collaboration-document-for-PSK-Identity-02#experiment
You'd need to do it on one of the bulbs that was TC flashable and you need to be able to flash serially.
I popped the hood on the bulbs and they have no solder pads for the serial connections. Also, I am new (too late?) to tasmota and my serial interface hasn't arrived yet.
On Sun, Aug 23, 2020 at 5:39 PM finnzz [email protected] wrote:
I have 6 of these and 4 won't flash:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0838SW8V2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00
If you need logs, let me know
What would be really useful is if you would run through this process:
https://github.com/ct-Open-Source/tuya-convert/wiki/Collaboration-document-for-PSK-Identity-02#experiment
You'd need to do it on one of the bulbs that was TC flashable and you need to be able to flash serially.
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There are still a lot of devices that will flash OTA. A lot of the devices you buy today were manufactured 6 or more months ago aren't patched. But as those inventories get emptied out, it is becoming more common to get devices that are patched.
It does seem like light bulbs that you can flash OTA are particularly hard to come by. Maybe inventories of bulbs move faster than other devices.
If you post some photos of the inside of your bulb you will get help here. Not all bulbs have the pads you need exposed right on the top PCB unfortunately
My bulbs are the same way (no solder pads). The LED PCB is glued to the case, and the only way I was able to remove the board was with a Dremel.
I've been attempting to load an older firmware from another manufacturer (but with my mac, prod_idx, and auz_key from the original firmware added at 0xfb000), but I've had no luck getting the board into pairing mode. Thinking I need to add a capacitor on the power input of the chip (for the power on/off counter).
I've been attempting to load an older firmware from another manufacturer (but with my mac, prod_idx, and auz_key from the original firmware added at 0xfb000), but I've had no luck getting the board into pairing mode. Thinking I need to add a capacitor on the power input of the chip (for the power on/off counter).
I don't think you can flash firmware from different devices, even if its same device model, and then connect to Tuya cloud. There is a security check that involves auz_key I believe. I'm not sure about making hardware changes like soldering in capacitors, maybe someone else can give their input on that.
Here is mine. The flashable and unflashable are visually identical.
In almost all cases the hardware is the same, just newer firmware. There are no pads at the top, but it looks like you might be able to get underneath by just removing those 3 screws.
I tried the screws immediately and something is still holding it back. Someone on Discord said I'd probably need to uncrimp the base and I'm on the fence about send them all back.
@bmorgan99 - Yeah, if they're like mine, there's two extremely short wires connecting the base to the PCB. You'd have to uncrimp and desolder before you could pull the assembly out. Or, if you have a reflow station, you might be able to desolder the light PCB at the 8-pin header, program the chip, and resolder it back in place without having to uncrimp the base.
