electronic-leadscrew
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clough42
Help !?
Hi,
I am a complete novice with no skills or knowledge in this area. I think I have followed the instructions and examples. Flashed the firmware onto the launchpad, but the led&key board does not respond. Checked continuity and have 5 V power. Do you have any suggestions?
Hi,
Have you watched James’ troubleshooting video at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=84O8iWemqxY&list=PLDlWKv7KIIr90ZZ7Zqt-ge5nVVdS3WVgg&index=21?
Regards,
Yan
Yan,
I had not, and it looks very useful. Thanks for the suggestion.
Norbert
Sent from my iPad
On May 6, 2021, at 10:26, JonWoellhaf @.***> wrote:
Hi,
Have you watched James’ troubleshooting video at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=84O8iWemqxY&list=PLDlWKv7KIIr90ZZ7Zqt-ge5nVVdS3WVgg&index=21?
Regards,
Yan
From: DrNdB Sent: May 6, 2021 11:16 To: clough42/electronic-leadscrew Cc: Subscribed Subject: [clough42/electronic-leadscrew] Help !? (#154)
Hi,
I am a complete novice with no skills or knowledge in this area. I think I have followed the instructions and examples. Flashed the firmware onto the launchpad, but the led&key board does not respond. Checked continuity and have 5 V power. Do you have any suggestions?
— You are receiving this because you are subscribed to this thread. Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub, or unsubscribe. — You are receiving this because you authored the thread. Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub, or unsubscribe.
I had this problem just yesterday (I'm bench testing my rig right now) and I was able to resolve it:
Re-watch the video on flashing the firmware. Make sure you've selected "Release" mode rather than "Debug" mode, then click the "debug" icon... It's very unintuitive, and I'm a software developer who has used many other IDEs... I've never seen one that works this way (but also, I don't develop for embedded hardware, so what do I know?)
Good luck.
Thank you, I’ll give it a try!
Sent from my iPad
On May 6, 2021, at 17:15, LabRatJason @.***> wrote:
I had this problem just yesterday (I'm bench testing my rig right now) and I was able to resolve it:
Re-watch the video on flashing the firmware. Make sure you've selected "Release" mode rather than "Debug" mode, then click the "debug" icon... It's very unintuitive, and I'm a software developer who has used many other IDEs... I've never seen one that works this way (but also, I don't develop for embedded hardware, so what do I know?)
Good luck.
— You are receiving this because you authored the thread. Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub, or unsubscribe.
I have followed everyone’s advice, thank you. This is what I have: two leds on the boost board lighted, continuity from pins on boost board to led&key board and beyond. When I flash the code, either in debug mode or in release mode, the led&key does not respond ( I have actually bought a second board without success)
I’m confident we will be able to get your system working.
Don’t feel too bad. I have 70 years experience working with electronics and computers and software, and I still get confused.
After you click the bug icon, do you see several messages appearing on the screen? I assume you do.
Are you remembering to click the green right-pointing arrowhead icon? In either Debug or Release mode, the program halts and waits for that icon to be clicked. Of course, this does not happen in Release mode on power up with the computer disconnected.
Jon, Thanks, I have done all that. I am “relatively” sure I have flashed the firmware onto the board. I strongly suspect that there is something amiss with the led&key board, and I have ordered yet another one. I so much want this project to succeed, because it would vastly increase the utility of my otherwise nice bench top lathe. Thanks again for your help.
Norbert
Sent from my iPad
On May 7, 2021, at 12:20, JonWoellhaf @.***> wrote: I’m confident we will be able to get your system working.
Don’t feel too bad. I have 70 years experience working with electronics and computers and software, and I still get confused.
After you click the bug icon, do you see several messages appearing on the screen? I assume you do.
Are you remembering to click the green right-pointing arrowhead icon? In either Debug or Release mode, the program halts and waits for that icon to be clicked. Of course, this does not happen in Release mode on power up with the computer disconnected.
From: DrNdB Sent: May 7, 2021 12:55 To: clough42/electronic-leadscrew Cc: JonWoellhaf ; Comment Subject: Re: [clough42/electronic-leadscrew] Help !? (#154)
I have followed everyone’s advice, thank you. This is what I have: two leds on the boost board lighted, continuity from pins on boost board to led&key board and beyond. When I flash the code, either in debug mode or in release mode, the led&key does not respond ( I have actually bought a second board without success)
— You are receiving this because you commented. Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub, or unsubscribe. — You are receiving this because you authored the thread. Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub, or unsubscribe.
If you want to send me your LED&KEY boards, I will be happy to test them.
Are you a member of PracticalMachinist.com?
Jon,
That is a very nice offer. I can send them to you if only for interest to see if they’re any good. I have ordered a third one ( since they’re dirt cheap), but I would be quite interested in the outcome. Thanks for the offer.
Norbert
Sent from my iPad
On May 7, 2021, at 14:26, JonWoellhaf @.***> wrote:
If you want to send me your LED&KEY boards, I will be happy to test them.
Are you a member of PracticalMachinist.com?
From: DrNdB Sent: May 7, 2021 13:28 To: clough42/electronic-leadscrew Cc: JonWoellhaf ; Comment Subject: Re: [clough42/electronic-leadscrew] Help !? (#154)
Jon, Thanks, I have done all that. I am “relatively” sure I have flashed the firmware onto the board. I strongly suspect that there is something amiss with the led&key board, and I have ordered yet another one. I so much want this project to succeed, because it would vastly increase the utility of my otherwise nice bench top lathe. Thanks again for your help.
Norbert
Sent from my iPad
On May 7, 2021, at 12:20, JonWoellhaf @.***> wrote: I’m confident we will be able to get your system working.
Don’t feel too bad. I have 70 years experience working with electronics and computers and software, and I still get confused.
After you click the bug icon, do you see several messages appearing on the screen? I assume you do.
Are you remembering to click the green right-pointing arrowhead icon? In either Debug or Release mode, the program halts and waits for that icon to be clicked. Of course, this does not happen in Release mode on power up with the computer disconnected.
From: DrNdB Sent: May 7, 2021 12:55 To: clough42/electronic-leadscrew Cc: JonWoellhaf ; Comment Subject: Re: [clough42/electronic-leadscrew] Help !? (#154)
I have followed everyone’s advice, thank you. This is what I have: two leds on the boost board lighted, continuity from pins on boost board to led&key board and beyond. When I flash the code, either in debug mode or in release mode, the led&key does not respond ( I have actually bought a second board without success)
— You are receiving this because you commented. Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub, or unsubscribe. — You are receiving this because you authored the thread. Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub, or unsubscribe.
— You are receiving this because you commented. Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub, or unsubscribe. — You are receiving this because you authored the thread. Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub, or unsubscribe.
One thing that I missed when flashing the update was after it did the upload hit the tiny "play" button to get the software to run on the board. If your in debug mode and update if you cycle the power all the data gets wiped. as JonWoellhafand mentioned make sure that it's set to release mode. Also triple-check the wires from the ELS Boost to the LED board are going to the right pins. In my case when resoldering the pins that you have to reposition the traces are so weak that I wrecked one board by accident when I pulled the original pins out, I wrecked one of the little solder pads. Yes, good choice on Jame's part they are dirt cheap I had spares on hand. and his troubleshooting guide identifying where continuity should go helped identify that one for me.
New thought:
Verify the position of the switches on the TI board, including the ones under James' Boost board. Even if they are in the correct position, move them back and forth a couple times. One person reported this fixed the problem he was having.
What do you see on the LED&KEY board? Is it completely dark?
Email me at [email protected] and I'll send you my mailing address.
Hi, Norbert.
I received your two LED&KEY boards today. As you reported, the red LED to the lower left of the seven-segment displays remained dark when I powered the boards. However, I was able to get the LED to work on one of the boards by resoldering the 5-pin connector. Unfortunately, the board still did not work. I verified signals were getting to U1.
I believe both boards are damaged beyond repair. Fortunately, they're nearly dirt cheap -- or at least they were the last time I bought them. I thought I was ordering two spares, but I actually ordered two sets of two. So I have four extra.
Unsoldering J1 and replacing it with the header in James' kit is definitely not a project I'd recommend a beginner in electronics soldering attempt. I suspect the board was damaged during this process. Did you check the boards before replacing J1?
You said you are a "complete novice" when it comes to electronics and software, so I assume you are not aware of the sensitivity of many modern devices to static discharge. That is possibly what killed your boards, though you should have little static problems in your area. You packaged the boards you sent to me in clear bubble wrap. That stuff is death to electronics. You must use special anti-static bags (usually pink) or bubble wrap or foam, or metalized bags like the one the LED&KEY board comes in. When you handle the boards, grip them by the edges and avoid contacting any pins or traces.
I soldered the connector to one of my spare boards and tested it. I’ll send it to you tomorrow. No charge.
I am concerned your boost board may be similarly damaged. If this LED&KEY board does not work, then I’ll have to suspect the boost board is bad.
So, same deal. If the replacement LED&KEY board doesn’t fix the problem, then send me your boost board and I’ll test it. I’ll include an anti-static bag in case you no longer have the one James used.
Good luck with this!
Jan
Hi Jan,
Thank you so much for helping me so much. I am (was) a cardiac anesthesiologist and later an orthopedic surgeon volunteering in Africa, so I really don’t know a thing about this stuff. If my booster board LEDs light up does that imply that it is OK? Anyway, thank for your generosity in testing the boards and even sending me another one. I am absolutely determined to get this project done (especially since I have already done the mechanical changes on my SC4 bench lathe). I am going to wait doing the electronics work until my son comes for a visit in two weeks. He has much more experience with this sort of stuff. Again, thank a lot and I will keep you posted on the progress. Best wishes
Norbert
Sent from my iPad
On May 18, 2021, at 00:01, JonWoellhaf @.***> wrote:
Hi, Norbert.
I received your two LED&KEY boards today. As you reported, the red LED to the lower left of the seven-segment displays remained dark when I powered the boards. However, I was able to get the LED to work on one of the boards by resoldering the 5-pin connector. Unfortunately, the board still did not work. I verified signals were getting to U1.
I believe both boards are damaged beyond repair. Fortunately, they're nearly dirt cheap -- or at least they were the last time I bought them. I thought I was ordering two spares, but I actually ordered two sets of two. So I have four extra.
Unsoldering J1 and replacing it with the header in James' kit is definitely not a project I'd recommend a beginner in electronics soldering attempt. I suspect the board was damaged during this process. Did you check the boards before replacing J1?
You said you are a "complete novice" when it comes to electronics and software, so I assume you are not aware of the sensitivity of many modern devices to static discharge. That is possibly what killed your boards, though you should have little static problems in your area. You packaged the boards you sent to me in clear bubble wrap. That stuff is death to electronics. You must use special anti-static bags (usually pink) or bubble wrap or foam, or metalized bags like the one the LED&KEY board comes in. When you handle the boards, grip them by the edges and avoid contacting any pins or traces.
I soldered the connector to one of my spare boards and tested it. I’ll send it to you tomorrow. No charge.
I am concerned your boost board may be similarly damaged. If this LED&KEY board does not work, then I’ll have to suspect the boost board is bad.
So, same deal. If the replacement LED&KEY board doesn’t fix the problem, then send me your boost board and I’ll test it. I’ll include an anti-static bag in case you no longer have the one James used.
Good luck with this!
Jan — You are receiving this because you authored the thread. Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub, or unsubscribe.
If the LEDs light up, that means that 5V and 3.3V are present. It might be worth connecting the board to power without putting it on the LaunchPad board just to test the voltages first and make sure they're correct.
James
On Tue, May 18, 2021 at 8:37 AM DrNdB @.***> wrote:
Hi Jan,
Thank you so much for helping me so much. I am (was) a cardiac anesthesiologist and later an orthopedic surgeon volunteering in Africa, so I really don’t know a thing about this stuff. If my booster board LEDs light up does that imply that it is OK? Anyway, thank for your generosity in testing the boards and even sending me another one. I am absolutely determined to get this project done (especially since I have already done the mechanical changes on my SC4 bench lathe). I am going to wait doing the electronics work until my son comes for a visit in two weeks. He has much more experience with this sort of stuff. Again, thank a lot and I will keep you posted on the progress. Best wishes
Norbert
Sent from my iPad
On May 18, 2021, at 00:01, JonWoellhaf @.***> wrote:
Hi, Norbert.
I received your two LED&KEY boards today. As you reported, the red LED to the lower left of the seven-segment displays remained dark when I powered the boards. However, I was able to get the LED to work on one of the boards by resoldering the 5-pin connector. Unfortunately, the board still did not work. I verified signals were getting to U1.
I believe both boards are damaged beyond repair. Fortunately, they're nearly dirt cheap -- or at least they were the last time I bought them. I thought I was ordering two spares, but I actually ordered two sets of two. So I have four extra.
Unsoldering J1 and replacing it with the header in James' kit is definitely not a project I'd recommend a beginner in electronics soldering attempt. I suspect the board was damaged during this process. Did you check the boards before replacing J1?
You said you are a "complete novice" when it comes to electronics and software, so I assume you are not aware of the sensitivity of many modern devices to static discharge. That is possibly what killed your boards, though you should have little static problems in your area. You packaged the boards you sent to me in clear bubble wrap. That stuff is death to electronics. You must use special anti-static bags (usually pink) or bubble wrap or foam, or metalized bags like the one the LED&KEY board comes in. When you handle the boards, grip them by the edges and avoid contacting any pins or traces.
I soldered the connector to one of my spare boards and tested it. I’ll send it to you tomorrow. No charge.
I am concerned your boost board may be similarly damaged. If this LED&KEY board does not work, then I’ll have to suspect the boost board is bad.
So, same deal. If the replacement LED&KEY board doesn’t fix the problem, then send me your boost board and I’ll test it. I’ll include an anti-static bag in case you no longer have the one James used.
Good luck with this!
Jan — You are receiving this because you authored the thread. Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub, or unsubscribe.
— You are receiving this because you are subscribed to this thread. Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub https://github.com/clough42/electronic-leadscrew/issues/154#issuecomment-843227559, or unsubscribe https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AAZLSHH7EHZEQHMYWGRU7NDTOJ3RDANCNFSM44HPWRJQ .
Wilco
Sent from my iPad
On May 18, 2021, at 07:41, clough42 @.***> wrote:
If the LEDs light up, that means that 5V and 3.3V are present. It might be worth connecting the board to power without putting it on the LaunchPad board just to test the voltages first and make sure they're correct.
James
On Tue, May 18, 2021 at 8:37 AM DrNdB @.***> wrote:
Hi Jan,
Thank you so much for helping me so much. I am (was) a cardiac anesthesiologist and later an orthopedic surgeon volunteering in Africa, so I really don’t know a thing about this stuff. If my booster board LEDs light up does that imply that it is OK? Anyway, thank for your generosity in testing the boards and even sending me another one. I am absolutely determined to get this project done (especially since I have already done the mechanical changes on my SC4 bench lathe). I am going to wait doing the electronics work until my son comes for a visit in two weeks. He has much more experience with this sort of stuff. Again, thank a lot and I will keep you posted on the progress. Best wishes
Norbert
Sent from my iPad
On May 18, 2021, at 00:01, JonWoellhaf @.***> wrote:
Hi, Norbert.
I received your two LED&KEY boards today. As you reported, the red LED to the lower left of the seven-segment displays remained dark when I powered the boards. However, I was able to get the LED to work on one of the boards by resoldering the 5-pin connector. Unfortunately, the board still did not work. I verified signals were getting to U1.
I believe both boards are damaged beyond repair. Fortunately, they're nearly dirt cheap -- or at least they were the last time I bought them. I thought I was ordering two spares, but I actually ordered two sets of two. So I have four extra.
Unsoldering J1 and replacing it with the header in James' kit is definitely not a project I'd recommend a beginner in electronics soldering attempt. I suspect the board was damaged during this process. Did you check the boards before replacing J1?
You said you are a "complete novice" when it comes to electronics and software, so I assume you are not aware of the sensitivity of many modern devices to static discharge. That is possibly what killed your boards, though you should have little static problems in your area. You packaged the boards you sent to me in clear bubble wrap. That stuff is death to electronics. You must use special anti-static bags (usually pink) or bubble wrap or foam, or metalized bags like the one the LED&KEY board comes in. When you handle the boards, grip them by the edges and avoid contacting any pins or traces.
I soldered the connector to one of my spare boards and tested it. I’ll send it to you tomorrow. No charge.
I am concerned your boost board may be similarly damaged. If this LED&KEY board does not work, then I’ll have to suspect the boost board is bad.
So, same deal. If the replacement LED&KEY board doesn’t fix the problem, then send me your boost board and I’ll test it. I’ll include an anti-static bag in case you no longer have the one James used.
Good luck with this!
Jan — You are receiving this because you authored the thread. Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub, or unsubscribe.
— You are receiving this because you are subscribed to this thread. Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub https://github.com/clough42/electronic-leadscrew/issues/154#issuecomment-843227559, or unsubscribe https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AAZLSHH7EHZEQHMYWGRU7NDTOJ3RDANCNFSM44HPWRJQ .
— You are receiving this because you authored the thread. Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub, or unsubscribe.
Note that the LED&Key PCB is extremely sensitive to long cables; mine will work with a 14" cable, but not with an 18" (and I tested multiples of each!) The power LEDs may light up, but the display may not work, if the cable is unsuitable. Try with more than one short cable to see if there's an issue. It's best to test with a LED&Key that you've not altered, fresh out of the box. I trashed my first one, lifted a pad, and didn't see it. Time waster!
Just as an additional data point, I sacrificed an old 1394 FireWire cable to drive my display and it’s about 60” long. In my bench testing I’ve had no issues with it so far. We’ll see how it holds up after the install, but it is definitely possible to run longer cables for the display. I think it’s a combination of shielding and capacitance in the cable. My line of thinking is that I don’t have all the testing capabilities that James has, but I stand a better chance of success if I start with a cable that is made for high speed data transfer (also, it’s a pretty much defunct standard now anyways)
Sent from my iPhone
On May 20, 2021, at 6:44 AM, CincyFlyer @.***> wrote:
Note that the LED&Key PCB is extremely sensitive to long cables; mine will work with a 14" cable, but not with an 18" (and I tested multiples of each!)
Thank you both for your input. Gratefully received, and I will keep it in mind if and when I get to test the control box.
Sent from my iPad
On May 20, 2021, at 07:11, LabRatJason @.***> wrote:
Just as an additional data point, I sacrificed an old 1394 FireWire cable to drive my display and it’s about 60” long. In my bench testing I’ve had no issues with it so far. We’ll see how it holds up after the install, but it is definitely possible to run longer cables for the display. I think it’s a combination of shielding and capacitance in the cable. My line of thinking is that I don’t have all the testing capabilities that James has, but I stand a better chance of success if I start with a cable that is made for high speed data transfer (also, it’s a pretty much defunct standard now anyways)
Sent from my iPhone
On May 20, 2021, at 6:44 AM, CincyFlyer @.***> wrote:
Note that the LED&Key PCB is extremely sensitive to long cables; mine will work with a 14" cable, but not with an 18" (and I tested multiples of each!) — You are receiving this because you authored the thread. Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub, or unsubscribe.
I wonder if I have any FW cables; probably not at this point. I had some four-conductor with individual shields, and other weird stuff, that I may try. Otherwise, the next iteration will have the display and micro controller board in the same box, at working height.
Hi Jan,
I just received your package! Thank you so much. I will wait until next weekend when my son will be here to try things out. Just to ensure « adult supervision » I will let you know the outcome. BW
Norbert
Sent from my iPad
On May 18, 2021, at 00:01, JonWoellhaf @.***> wrote:
Hi, Norbert.
I received your two LED&KEY boards today. As you reported, the red LED to the lower left of the seven-segment displays remained dark when I powered the boards. However, I was able to get the LED to work on one of the boards by resoldering the 5-pin connector. Unfortunately, the board still did not work. I verified signals were getting to U1.
I believe both boards are damaged beyond repair. Fortunately, they're nearly dirt cheap -- or at least they were the last time I bought them. I thought I was ordering two spares, but I actually ordered two sets of two. So I have four extra.
Unsoldering J1 and replacing it with the header in James' kit is definitely not a project I'd recommend a beginner in electronics soldering attempt. I suspect the board was damaged during this process. Did you check the boards before replacing J1?
You said you are a "complete novice" when it comes to electronics and software, so I assume you are not aware of the sensitivity of many modern devices to static discharge. That is possibly what killed your boards, though you should have little static problems in your area. You packaged the boards you sent to me in clear bubble wrap. That stuff is death to electronics. You must use special anti-static bags (usually pink) or bubble wrap or foam, or metalized bags like the one the LED&KEY board comes in. When you handle the boards, grip them by the edges and avoid contacting any pins or traces.
I soldered the connector to one of my spare boards and tested it. I’ll send it to you tomorrow. No charge.
I am concerned your boost board may be similarly damaged. If this LED&KEY board does not work, then I’ll have to suspect the boost board is bad.
So, same deal. If the replacement LED&KEY board doesn’t fix the problem, then send me your boost board and I’ll test it. I’ll include an anti-static bag in case you no longer have the one James used.
Good luck with this!
Jan — You are receiving this because you authored the thread. Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub, or unsubscribe.
OK. Great.
Another thought I had is that the cable from the boost board to the LED&KEY board may be defective. I wish I’ would have thought to have you send that, too.
Please keep me informed. I’m very interested in getting your system working!
Jan
Note that the LED&Key PCB is extremely sensitive to long cables; mine will work with a 14" cable, but not with an 18" (and I tested multiples of each!) The power LEDs may light up, but the display may not work, if the cable is unsuitable.
Every cable on mine is at least 5 feet and working fine. Be sure you have good crimps and solder joints because 4 more inches of cable is definitely not the problem.
In a system like this, between the parts of the ELS and the lathe itself, there are plenty of electronic noise sources to mess with the serial link between the Launch and keypad/display. Proper grounding and shielding of the cables is important, and keeping the cables short helps. When grounding the cable shields, ground at one end, and tie the shields to the system safety ground and not to the digital electronic ground on the boards. On my system, I tied the safety ground from the mains cord to the metal box where I have the power supplies, motor control and other electronics. I used a terminal bar system that includes a terminal set for taking the ground through the terminal mounting bar to the box. I used connectors with shells that ground to the metal box, and tie my cable shields to the connector shells too. It's not perfect, but the idea is to form a "star", all grounds coming to one common point and radiating out from that common point while avoiding any loops.
All that said, with my lathe setup, it turned out that I could put my control box behind the splash shield of the lathe and it extended just enough above the shield that I could mount my display box on the top edge of the big box. That let me use a display cable less than a foot long and shielding wasn't an issue. There are a couple of pictures in this writeup showing how I arranged the parts in the box and the short cabling. Clough42 Electronic Leadscrew.pdf
Hope this is helpful.
Yeah, my error was using multiple copies of the same longer cable. I made a new cable, somewhat over half a meter in length, with shielding, and it works properly, so I can move my control panel out of the way of chips!
Hi Jan,
Well, my adult supervisor has arrived and after a lot of fiddling found a problem with the ground on the boost board. We tried one of the new key & display boards I had bought and lo and behold everything seems to work. I am flabbergasted. So I am keeping the board you send me to put in the hopefully final iteration, because it is the only one I trust. I have ordered a new boost board because working with a bypass like my son made does not appeal to me. Anyway, everything seems to work. Next I’ll have to hook up the servo and make certain works and than I might be in business. I am more grateful than I can express and I will let you know if and when I will get the whole thing installed on the lathe and working. BW
Norbert
Sent from my iPad
On May 24, 2021, at 19:24, JonWoellhaf @.***> wrote:
OK. Great.
Another thought I had is that the cable from the boost board to the LED&KEY board may be defective. I wish I’ would have thought to have you send that, too.
Please keep me informed. I’m very interested in getting your system working!
Jan
From: DrNdB Sent: May 24, 2021 19:05 To: clough42/electronic-leadscrew Cc: JonWoellhaf ; Comment Subject: Re: [clough42/electronic-leadscrew] Help !? (#154)
Hi Jan,
I just received your package! Thank you so much. I will wait until next weekend when my son will be here to try things out. Just to ensure « adult supervision » I will let you know the outcome. BW
Norbert
— You are receiving this because you authored the thread. Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub, or unsubscribe.
Hi Jan,
It is working :) I am over the moon. Thank you so much for your help. We checked and resoldered all the connections. And with your board it now all works! So I am about to mount it all on my lathe and test it. Thank you so much for your help. Best wishes
Norbert
Sent from my iPad
On May 31, 2021, at 19:26, JonWoellhaf @.***> wrote:
That’s great news! Thanks for the update.
From: DrNdB Sent: May 31, 2021 19:29 To: clough42/electronic-leadscrew Cc: JonWoellhaf ; Comment Subject: Re: [clough42/electronic-leadscrew] Help !? (#154)
Hi Jan,
Well, my adult supervisor has arrived and after a lot of fiddling found a problem with the ground on the boost board. We tried one of the new key & display boards I had bought and lo and behold everything seems to work. I am flabbergasted. So I am keeping the board you send me to put in the hopefully final iteration, because it is the only one I trust. I have ordered a new boost board because working with a bypass like my son made does not appeal to me. Anyway, everything seems to work. Next I’ll have to hook up the servo and make certain works and than I might be in business. I am more grateful than I can express and I will let you know if and when I will get the whole thing installed on the lathe and working. BW
Norbert — You are receiving this because you authored the thread. Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub, or unsubscribe.
That’s great news! Thanks for the update.
Jan
From: DrNdB Sent: June 5, 2021 18:19 To: clough42/electronic-leadscrew Cc: JonWoellhaf ; Comment Subject: Re: [clough42/electronic-leadscrew] Help !? (#154)
Hi Jan,
It is working :) I am over the moon. Thank you so much for your help. We checked and resoldered all the connections. And with your board it now all works! So I am about to mount it all on my lathe and test it. Thank you so much for your help. Best wishes
Norbert
Hi,
I have the system installed on the lathe, and it appears stable and it is running. It is running way too slow though. I am using the same servo James uses and have a pulley ratio of 1:3 to the lead screw. In configurations I set micro steps to 1 ans steps to 1000 as in his example, and I am wondering if that could be the problem. Do you have any idea? Thanks for your help. BW
Norbert
Sent from my iPad
On Jun 6, 2021, at 09:13, JonWoellhaf @.***> wrote:
That’s great news! Thanks for the update.
Jan
From: DrNdB Sent: June 5, 2021 18:19 To: clough42/electronic-leadscrew Cc: JonWoellhaf ; Comment Subject: Re: [clough42/electronic-leadscrew] Help !? (#154)
Hi Jan,
It is working :) I am over the moon. Thank you so much for your help. We checked and resoldered all the connections. And with your board it now all works! So I am about to mount it all on my lathe and test it. Thank you so much for your help. Best wishes
Norbert — You are receiving this because you authored the thread. Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub, or unsubscribe.
Cut a thread (light pass) and see what pitch you get. Metric is easiest to manage. If you want 2mm but get 0.5mm, then it's possible that one of your components (can be either the encoder or the stepper) isn't doing what you want. Check the stepper controller for microsteps, it could have a weird default. Or your encoder is putting out 1K instead of 4K (which will get you my example result.) Easiest fix: you can change any of the parameters so that it works out; if it's running 1/3 speed, undo the adjustment that James suggests. It doesn't really matter what you change, as long as the ultimate ratio comes out right.