"Pins" menu is empty when accessed via >>>

[philrz]

Repro is with Brim commit 1ee21a8.

As shown in the attached video, when the app window is narrowed such that the ">>>" pull-down appears, the "Pins" menu now shows "(empty)".

https://user-images.githubusercontent.com/5934157/184243203-ea57f040-60c9-4827-95bc-1b2f5de7ec59.mp4