BIGTREETECH-SKR-PRO-V1.1
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bigtreetech
SKR Pro v1.1 using A4988 with green PCB DOES NOT WORK!
Hi. Hope someone can help me. The board works fine, which mens i can upload new firmware and i can control fans and other hardware devices using PrintRun for Mac. But when i try to control the stepper motor, all i get is a vibrating motor which does not spin. Changing the Vref did not help. The same motor with the same cable works fine using a SKR E3 DIP. I use the fw from this github and changed only the stepper motor section to A4988. Any help would be appreciated. Georg
I am having the same issues with my CoreXY build on A4988s and DRV8825s. Everything else about the board works but steppers are a huge problem right now - VREF changes not helping and if I put my ramps card back in the steppers are fine. If it wasn't for the fact that I already order 2209's I would have put the card back in the box and asked for refund. I did get a little further though after several hours testing - if I lower my steps and feed rate to certain values then they actually move albeit incorrect steps - e.g I say move 10mm it moves 100mm. Now you would think simple math would apply and I could adjust my steps and rate accordingly based on that but as soon as I change the values to the correct ones the steppers refuse to move. If I try values in between it makes jerk movements or beeps and sometimes even just goes into kill mode because the stepper sounds like it is trying to move and heats up. Very frustrating to say the least. Is it that maybe we should have a different jumper configuration that actually correctly enables microstepping for these 4988/8825s?
That was it - you have to use the MS1,MS2 and MS3 pins according to your stepping. Works now. Your pic seems to show you have all high which is 1/32 stepping and your 4988 should have a low,low,high for 1/16
Hello cobrettee.
Thank you for your answer.
According to the data sheet, I have to shorten 1, 2 and 3 to get 16 micro steps.
Anyway, I also tried all the other combinations and nothing changed. So you believe switching to 2209 will solve the problem. I tried 2208s from a working SKR E3 DIP and had the same problem, but please let me know in case it makes a difference for you. Finally I believe the board is broken and now I do not know if I should order the same board again or something else. It would be great to know if there is a single user out there, using the SKR v1.1 PRO with A4988 successfully. If so it would be great to know the jumper setting and maybe to get a Firmware file, so I can upload it to my board.
Georg
No I just happened to have ordered 2209s at the same time. There is no reason these 4988/8825s should not work. I can only tell you that I set my jumpers according to what was in the Marlin configuration_adv.h file and now my steppers move and more importantly correctly move. When I say 10mm it moves 10mm as per the calculations for belt driven(xy) and leadscrew(z) driven 1/32 steppings. Did you try the order if looking from right to left at the pins L,L,H?
Hi corbrettee.
Sorry for the late answer, but weekend is family time, so my hobby has to wait;-)
So you mean you have the dip switches set like this and the adv. config file in Marlin like this and this makes your steppers rotate correctly?
Would you be so kind to send me your Marlin files and/or the FIRMWARE.CUR file from your SKR so I can make sure I use absolutely the same setup board and firmware wise. And do you use the cables like shown on my pictures with green and blue twisted or like shown on the picture from Rudy?
Georg
Hi Rudy.
Also a big thank you to you. I started with a cable exactly like shown on your picture, but this did not work at all - also not on the SKR E3 DIP. Then I checked the pins on the motors to see which one belongs to which coil (and also checked the data sheet) and after changing the green and blue wire the motor and the cable works on the E3 DIP and at least it generates the vibes using the v1.1 Pro. But what I really learned the last few weeks is, that there is always a little surprise waiting for you around the next corner;-) So I will test it again and let you know. Georg
Hi Georg...my DRV8825's are working - I had some time this morning so I also tested with working A4988s(from another printer) and I am seeing same behavior you see. No matter what settings I choose the A4988s won't turn the motors and it is not a motor wiring issue at least for me since I am using the 8825s with no issue. You can also do a simple led test to confirm you have the correct pairings.
Hi Rudy.
Twisting the cable I get most of the time no sound and no vibration and sometimes a bit of one or the other;-(
I will do more multimeterwork as soon as I have the time to do so, but so far I trusted the documentations.... Maybe I should stop doing so.
Thank you again
Hi cobrettee.
AH, you are using a different driver and this works, but not the A4988. Slowly it makes sense to me that the support does not answer any more. Thank you for the time you spent to verify my problem. May I ask you which 2209s you ordered? I would then order the same and we could work on the firmware together - if it is ok for you. The amount of time I spent to try to make it work is nothing compared to the costs of new drivers.
Sure - they should be delivered next week https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33028054557.html
When I have more time I may take another stab at the 4988's and will let you know if any success.
;-)
Nothing to worry. Double check can never be wrong.
Georg
Rudolf Benner [email protected] schrieb am So. 13. Okt. 2019 um 20:47:
I may have confused the issue, if so, I apologize.
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Hi cobrettee.
I ordered the same, thank you.
Rudy. I tested the connectors on the board and the connectors at the motor and the two middle wired has to be twisted. A is 1 and 4, B is 3 and 6. Thank you again for the input.
Georg
Hi Rudy.
Unfortunately not.
So far we can exclude almost 100% that the problem is not the motor or the cable to the motor and I would say after days testing and searching - the problem also does not sit in front of the computer.
On the other hand we have 2 independent systems with the same issue and the two manufacturers most likely responsible for the issue do not care.
I would like to keep this ticket opened until it is solved or at least to tell others to look for another solution.
In case there is someone out there using the SKR v1.1 PRO mainboard successfully with the A4988 motor driver it would be great to let me know. So far we haven't heard from a single user.
It would be great if I would be able to close this ticket soon and I will do so, once the issue is solved.
Thank you
Georg
Hello, Looking for a more modern board I found this picture, can it be due to that? https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1619/4791/files/BIGTREETECH-SKR-PRO-V11_09.jpg?v=1561201378
Hello DJKyomi.
Thank you for your input. Using the A4988 with the SKR v1.1 PRO the jumper to connect the RST and SLP has to be set plus the jumpers for MS1 - MS3 depending on the number of micro steps you want to use. You can see in the first and the last picture i have sent, that the jumper you mentioned is always set, but with different settings for the micro steps. So according to the description from BTT, this should be fine.
In the meantime i ordered a new SKR v1.1 PRO as well as 2209 drivers to see if i can get this baby work somehow. I also got some help from tech support, but nothing since one week. Its strange.
Regards
Georg
Hi cobrettee.
Have you got your TMC2209 in the meantime?
I got mine today and after approximately 10 minutes, a basic test with a single stepper driver and motor has been made successfully. This is exactly how I would have been expecting it also with the A4988....
For me it seems to be more and more that the SKR Pro v1.1 is sold with A4988, but that this combination of board, driver an software simply does not work.
Please let me know
Thank you
Georg
yes got mine a week ago and they have been working very well. I simply won't bother with the A4988s any longer but it should be fixed for others. I think they assume if you are going with this board you are going with better steppers as it is the "pro" version so won't be to eager to fix it.
Hi.
Thank you for the update. For me it is fine as it is, now that i have a working solution. But how can we inform others to avoid this combination? I think it is enough that i wasted my time.
Hello all. I understand this is an old post. But it's been left open. I noticed some work being done By BTT on several new revisions of default firmware configurations, since the onboard SD card has been made to work for them. I am a user. I have direct experience with this setup. I have since moved to ST820, and plan to change to Trinamic later.
So. 1st thing. A4988 works just fine with the SKR PRO 1.1 and Marlin 2.0.x
2nd. A) Jumpers are not the same pattern as with other Drivers and no assumptions can be made. I generated a informative PDF to help users with Jumper configurations for SKR PRO. But even this should not be taken as absolute. Please for sure compare notes with the ACTUAL manufacturer of your driver. Not just one that makes the same chip. It matters! B) The A4988 are not well suited to all motors. Check the math. Check the specifications for the driver and the Motor to be sure that the driver can handle it. It is possible to make a motor run that the driver doesn't like and this will cause the driver, or motor, or both to get very hot. A well configured combination might get warm, but not hot. Other drivers will get very hot no mater what. C) Check the specifications for the the driver and chosen motor make sure the wires match correctly.
3rd. Once your jumpers are configured then you need to either manually do the math and calibrate the POT on the driver, one at a time or set each one slightly clock wise. That is if you note that there is a max left and max right. Set the POT to dead center between those points. This may even have been done for you by factory. Now turn it slightly to the right. This should be good for testing.
4rth. Some defaults for A4988 from Configuration.h It is more than probably that one or more of these may need to be tweaked for your setup. Bear in mind too. I am not sampling End stop defines or config. But having that set wrong may literally deny you ability to move an axis, even if you have the right motor driver config. So check your work. You will need to configure your motion yourself. Jerk, acceleration, max speed can come later but do require tweaking. #define X_ENABLE_ON 0 #define Y_ENABLE_ON 0 #define Z_ENABLE_ON 0 #define E_ENABLE_ON 0 // For all extruders #define INVERT_X_DIR false #define INVERT_Y_DIR false #define INVERT_Z_DIR true #define INVERT_E0_DIR false #define INVERT_E1_DIR false #define INVERT_E2_DIR false #define INVERT_E3_DIR false #define INVERT_E4_DIR false #define INVERT_E5_DIR false
5th. Configuration.adv defaults #define AXIS_RELATIVE_MODES { false, false, false, false } #define INVERT_X_STEP_PIN false #define INVERT_Y_STEP_PIN false #define INVERT_Z_STEP_PIN false #define INVERT_E_STEP_PIN false
6th. I have never seen the options for setting microstep from the firmware do any good. Simpler to leave it disabled. So as to not complicate setup, introduce over ride or bugs.
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When you have a good compile and the firmware is saved to the SD card, and the printer is reset. You can try to move an axis.
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To set the POT you can configure on the fly with a small screw driver. But it is recommended to do this only with a ceramic tool. Because the risk of touching anything else is very high and this can damage the chip, or power regulators by shorting VSS to ground.
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If you try to move the motor and it's very noisy, or shudders. A) Check the pins on the cable and make sure they are configured correctly to the motor. B) If you can be 100% certain the wires and jumpers are right. (this is kind of a big deal, do your homework). Then you can consider adjusting the POT further. C) from the LCD send the motor in a direction where it has some room to travel and the firmware is willing to let you do this. Say 50 to 100mm. Now adjust the POT slightly until the motion is smooth. It is very unlikely that you will need to adjust much at all. If you have to rotate more the 1/4 turn its likely that some thing is very wrong in your hardware setup, likely the motor, the jumpers, cables, or even your chosen DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT.
Hello rflulling.
THANK YOU for your help and all the time you spent to answer this ticket.
Could you please send me a picture of the jumper setup of your SKR Pro v1.1 using an A4988 successfully as well as the FIRMWARE.CUR file of your machine, so i can do another test.
It is not that the motors need a bit of adjustment when using A4988, but they do not move at all or only piep a bit. 2 different motors with the same cables work fine with the original Ender-3 mainboard which has A4988 on board as far as i know, work fine with the SKR E3 DIP with 2208, 2209 and also work fine with the SKR Pro v1.1 using 2208 or 2209. In the meantime i am able to use 2209 based sensorless homing, using the same motor/cable combination. I believe they are fine. In general, everything works fine, as long as i do not combine the Pro v.1.1 with the A4988 and i am not the only one who is not able to get it work.
So in case you use this combination successfully, i am more than willing to test it again and to close the ticket, the same time it works. Otherwise i think it would be important to let the others know, that this combination does not work, so i would like to keep this ticket opened.
Kind regards
Attached are the jumper config I meant to attache to the last.
I will have to double check on the Compiled firmware. This one, although I have a running record of every compile done. They are the Folders and in the begging for the SKR PRO most were hybrid A4988 + ST820. My X Axis, and Z if I recall were both A4988. That is because the ST820 have been unpopular and they only sell them in 4 packs... So I had to order a total of 8 for my 6 seats, and the second batch came later. I upgraded from an MKS 1.4 to the SKR PRO, and the MKS was 5 slots of A4988.
I am also not sure if it is legal for me to just distribute a compiled firmware as apposed to the "configuration" files. I have not read the various legal documents well enough.
I will venture that two distinct advantages of the A4988 over the ST820. Quieter, and generate less heat.
The ST820 driver do everything in backwards world. So they spend more time on than off, and every setting in Marlin for this driver must be reversed to a mirror of what the A4988 are set.
On Fri, Nov 29, 2019 at 2:26 AM oldman4U [email protected] wrote:
Hello rflulling.
THANK YOU for your help and all the time you spent to answer this ticket.
Could you please send me a picture of the jumper setup of your SKR Pro v1.1 using an A4988 successfully as well as the FIRMWARE.CUR file of your machine, so i can do another test.
It is not that the motors need a bit of adjustment when using A4988, but they do not move at all or only piep a bit. 2 different motors with the same cables work fine with the original Ender-3 mainboard which has A4988 on board as far as i know, work fine with the SKR E3 DIP with 2208, 2209 and also work fine with the SKR Pro v1.1 using 2208 or 2209. In the meantime i am able to use 2209 based sensorless homing, using the same motor/cable combination. I believe they are fine. In general, everything works fine, as long as i do not combine the Pro v.1.1 with the A4988 and i am not the only one who is not able to get it work.
So in case you use this combination successfully, i am more than willing to test it again and to close the ticket, the same time it works. Otherwise i think it would be important to let the others know, that this combination does not work, so i would like to keep this ticket opened.
Kind regards
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Hello rflulling.
Unfortunately there is still nothing attached, at least i can not see it.
I spent several weeks of my time to try to get this to work, so i would need pictures and a firmware which makes the SKR Pro v1.1 work with the A4988 drivers. Once i have both, i will test it again. Until then i will enjoy my SKR Pro v1.1 with the 2209's which are working very very nice without spending days and weeks to get them to work.
Thank you
Georg
Not sure how its been over looked. I know it was attached. Sorry it did not get through. Hope this helps. Will try to get time to offer better this weekend. Sorry been very busy with job. 9-8 and fighting to get my dual extruder behaving the way I need.
Ack....
On Sat, Dec 7, 2019, 12:26 PM oldman4U [email protected] wrote:
Hi.
No hurry, but the pdf is 6 empty pages.
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Ok, this one works... sorry for the trouble. Realy I am.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1CR7NcZsWs012gB1fWaCSrZSwWh_6bvzq/view?usp=drivesdk
On Sat, Dec 7, 2019, 12:26 PM oldman4U [email protected] wrote:
Hi.
No hurry, but the pdf is 6 empty pages.
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Hello rflulling.
No reason to be sorry, you try to help and that's great, thank you.
The pdf is a great summary of all driver related options for the SKR Pro, but the information is not new to me. In addition to all the options you listed i also tried all settings without the jumper shortening STEP and DIR, i tried different cables, motors, even different Marlin settings and this over several weeks, spending all my spare time. So in case you have an SKR Pro v1.1 with A4988 successfully working on your side, please send me also the firmware. Otherwise there is no reason for me to believe that repeating a test which i have already done several times will result in something different. In the meantime i use this board without any problem with 2209's and i also ordered a new SKR Pro v1.1 which i will use for additional tests to make sure that it is not the current board which has a problem with this particular driver.
Until then i must expect that this combination simply does not work. Even more, because there is at least another user with the same issue and so far not a single user using exactly this combination (SKR Pro v1.1, A4988 driver with Marlin v2) successfully.
Kind regards
i have the exact same problem. has anyone got this working yet? my motor wiring is the same (just colored different). i get no movement at all, no sound, nothing but the drivers getting really hot (A4988 (red) from geeetech) using this motor https://www.geeetech.com/hybrid-stepper-motor-42shd003420b-for-3d-printer-p-1011.html again everything worked on the gt2560+. swapping to the skr pro is a pain in the arse, i even had to swap the housing around for the connectors on my lcd (2004) to get that to work with the skr pro!
I have an idea, but I cannot test it. On the Ramps 1.6 Plus you have to solder the pins SLP and RST on the A4988 and DRV8825. maybe that will also solve your problem? scroll down on the page
https://www.biqu.equipment/products/biqu-3d-printer-parts-ramps-1-6-plus-upgrade-from
Hi.
Unfortunately we have 3 users where this combination does not work and so far not a single user using the A4988 successfully on the SKR Pro v1.1.
On the SKR Pro v1.1 you have to set a jumper to connect SLP and RST and at least I did it exactly like this.
Thank you DJKyomi for trying to help.
im following the same guide and the pics you posted, as i say, i get no movement just a very hot driver. even tried it with just the one jumper as in the guide but nothing. i cant afford new stepper drivers after buying the fricking board! so would really like to get this to work (and its my BD 2mora :$ ) im still waiting for a reply to my email from bigtree support. if i hear anything new ill let you know
I cannot upload a fully compiled firmware. Doing so puts me in a vendor position where by the terms of the contract we all agree to, knowingly or not, I become liable to you for updates. Thats not going to happen. I can however offer copies of my config, so long as you know and understand that it is NOT currently configured for your machine. I did reconfigure an older mixed file. That was set up to run both A4988, and ST820. FYI they are mostly the same thing but the ST820 operates 100% inverse the A4988 in every possible way. Anyway I test compiled that build several times with 100% success. If not being advised to liability of vendor status, I would have already offered that compile. I also know that when I grabbed the a copy of Marlin from BTT for the SKR PRO and merged it with my MKS 1.4 the only issues, were my own.
The Only thing I have not done, is to switch out the Drivers on my PCB for a test. This I think I can do today, snow day... Probably a good time to grab the current and OFFICIAL release version of Marlin 2.0. I think I will generate two branches. One for the ST820 and one for the A4988. I will take the time to test both flavors. I can and will offer a zip folder with the Configuration used. Its high time I official mount the SKR PRO anyway. It's been floating on a billing envelope to keep it from touching the Heat syncs on the A4988 standing on the MKS 1.4 behind it...
I think perhaps you might take this complaint over to the actual conversation on Marlin.
BigTree listens but for sure picks and chooses who to listen and reply too. Getting a reply from BTT is very unlikely, unless they believe you have an actual issue. So maintaining this topic here is a bit like shouting in frustration to the coats on a closet. Sometimes the other tenants in the building show back, but that's about the best you can hope for.
On Mon, Dec 16, 2019 at 2:15 PM keyser187 [email protected] wrote:
im following the same guide and the pics you posted, as i say, i get no movement just a very hot driver. even tried it with just the one jumper as in the guide but nothing. i cant afford new stepper drivers after buying the fricking board! so would really like to get this to work (and its my BD 2mora :$ ) im still waiting for a reply to my email from bigtree support. if i hear anything new ill let you know
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Helle rflulling.
Thank you for Your continuous support.
Seems you are the only one able to make this combination of drivers and boards work. So please provide a firmware OR the config files and a picture of your board showing the jumper setting and i will give it another try. This issue is now the one with the most replies. It would be great to be able to say - now it works and here is what you have to do to make it work and to close it the same time.
rflulling [email protected] schrieb am Mo. 16. Dez. 2019 um 22:49:
I cannot upload a fully compiled firmware. Doing so puts me in a vendor position where by the terms of the contract we all agree to, knowingly or not, I become liable to you for updates. Thats not going to happen. I can however offer copies of my config, so long as you know and understand that it is NOT currently configured for your machine. I did reconfigure an older mixed file. That was set up to run both A4988, and ST820. FYI they are mostly the same thing but the ST820 operates 100% inverse the A4988 in every possible way. Anyway I test compiled that build several times with 100% success. If not being advised to liability of vendor status, I would have already offered that compile. I also know that when I grabbed the a copy of Marlin from BTT for the SKR PRO and merged it with my MKS 1.4 the only issues, were my own.
The Only thing I have not done, is to switch out the Drivers on my PCB for a test. This I think I can do today, snow day... Probably a good time to grab the current and OFFICIAL release version of Marlin 2.0. I think I will generate two branches. One for the ST820 and one for the A4988. I will take the time to test both flavors. I can and will offer a zip folder with the Configuration used. Its high time I official mount the SKR PRO anyway. It's been floating on a billing envelope to keep it from touching the Heat syncs on the A4988 standing on the MKS 1.4 behind it...
I think perhaps you might take this complaint over to the actual conversation on Marlin.
BigTree listens but for sure picks and chooses who to listen and reply too. Getting a reply from BTT is very unlikely, unless they believe you have an actual issue. So maintaining this topic here is a bit like shouting in frustration to the coats on a closet. Sometimes the other tenants in the building show back, but that's about the best you can hope for.
On Mon, Dec 16, 2019 at 2:15 PM keyser187 [email protected] wrote:
im following the same guide and the pics you posted, as i say, i get no movement just a very hot driver. even tried it with just the one jumper as in the guide but nothing. i cant afford new stepper drivers after buying the fricking board! so would really like to get this to work (and its my BD 2mora :$ ) im still waiting for a reply to my email from bigtree support. if i hear anything new ill let you know
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I did not get the hardware switched for testing but the firmware is branched and passed compile on both version. Ready for the hardware. As stated, I cannot give the compiled Firmware for legal reasons. I can offer the Configuration files.
I will zip both sets, for your viewing after I have validated the function in the hardware test.
On Mon, Dec 16, 2019 at 4:07 PM oldman4U [email protected] wrote:
Helle rflulling.
Thank you for Your continuous support.
Seems you are the only one able to make this combination of drivers and boards work. So please provide a firmware OR the config files and a picture of your board showing the jumper setting and i will give it another try. This issue is now the one with the most replies. It would be great to be able to say - now it works and here is what you have to do to make it work and to close it the same time.
rflulling [email protected] schrieb am Mo. 16. Dez. 2019 um 22:49:
I cannot upload a fully compiled firmware. Doing so puts me in a vendor position where by the terms of the contract we all agree to, knowingly or not, I become liable to you for updates. Thats not going to happen. I can however offer copies of my config, so long as you know and understand that it is NOT currently configured for your machine. I did reconfigure an older mixed file. That was set up to run both A4988, and ST820. FYI they are mostly the same thing but the ST820 operates 100% inverse the A4988 in every possible way. Anyway I test compiled that build several times with 100% success. If not being advised to liability of vendor status, I would have already offered that compile. I also know that when I grabbed the a copy of Marlin from BTT for the SKR PRO and merged it with my MKS 1.4 the only issues, were my own.
The Only thing I have not done, is to switch out the Drivers on my PCB for a test. This I think I can do today, snow day... Probably a good time to grab the current and OFFICIAL release version of Marlin 2.0. I think I will generate two branches. One for the ST820 and one for the A4988. I will take the time to test both flavors. I can and will offer a zip folder with the Configuration used. Its high time I official mount the SKR PRO anyway. It's been floating on a billing envelope to keep it from touching the Heat syncs on the A4988 standing on the MKS 1.4 behind it...
I think perhaps you might take this complaint over to the actual conversation on Marlin.
BigTree listens but for sure picks and chooses who to listen and reply too. Getting a reply from BTT is very unlikely, unless they believe you have an actual issue. So maintaining this topic here is a bit like shouting in frustration to the coats on a closet. Sometimes the other tenants in the building show back, but that's about the best you can hope for.
On Mon, Dec 16, 2019 at 2:15 PM keyser187 [email protected] wrote:
im following the same guide and the pics you posted, as i say, i get no movement just a very hot driver. even tried it with just the one jumper as in the guide but nothing. i cant afford new stepper drivers after buying the fricking board! so would really like to get this to work (and its my BD 2mora :$ ) im still waiting for a reply to my email from bigtree support. if i hear anything new ill let you know
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Hello keyser187.
Thank you for the bin. Do you also have a picture which shows the jumper configuration you have been using? I am also a 3D printer newbie and bought my first multimeter at the age of 50 6 months ago;-)
I have a general question to the experts here. Which MARLIN settings are driver relevant when using a Stand Alone driver like the A4988 (compared to the 2209's in UART mode which i use at the moment). All driver related current and micro steps settings are defined directly at the driver or mainboard, as far as i understand. Right or wrong?
sry no, they sent no pic of the jumpers. ive been using the same as you H,H,H and L,L,H (from right to left) but as i say i just tried my gt2560 (which FYI has printed on the board that 1/16 is H,H,H) but nothing, no humming, no vibration the motors are dead so i have no clue what to try next. ive spent more time trying to get things to work than actually running the printer (i got my geeetech pro w about 2 years ago) it now looks like this and im walking away from 3d printing!
You must have power to all three sets of power input. They do not have to be the same source. They must be connected and powered on.
Jumper in middle of board. The board will power up and accept new firmware from onboard SD if the USB power is switched on. If the 5V is switched on, then the board will only power up when the main power is connected.
On Wed, Dec 18, 2019 at 7:56 AM keyser187 [email protected] wrote:
sry no, they sent no pic of the jumpers. ive been using the same as you H,H,H and L,L,H (from right to left) but as i say i just tried my gt2560 (which FYI has printed on the board that 1/16 is H,H,H) but nothing, no humming, no vibration the motors are dead so i have no clue what to try next. ive spent more time trying to get things to work than actually running the printer (i got my geeetech pro w about 2 years ago) it now looks like this and im walking away from 3d printing! [image: IMG_20191218_134715] https://user-images.githubusercontent.com/58951786/71091641-5fdb2180-219d-11ea-8005-f917cded067d.jpg [image: IMG_20191218_135344] https://user-images.githubusercontent.com/58951786/71091908-fe678280-219d-11ea-8663-3a5df98e6640.jpg
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@keyser187 Yes, the jumpers are the same i have been using. My son has an Ender 3 Pro with SKR E3 DIP and TMC2208's working fine and now i build my own using the Pro v1.1 and 2209. Sometimes the way is the most funny part, so i play around with it and learn every time something new.;-) Enjoy and relax.
@rflulling. I have 24V connected to all inputs and the board works fine using 2209s. So in general my setup should work, but i guess you wrote this related to the pictures from keyser187.
You must have power to all three sets of power input. They do not have to be the same source. They must be connected and powered on. Jumper in middle of board. The board will power up and accept new firmware from onboard SD if the USB power is switched on. If the 5V is switched on, then the board will only power up when the main power is connected. … On Wed, Dec 18, 2019 at 7:56 AM keyser187 @.***> wrote: sry no, they sent no pic of the jumpers. ive been using the same as you H,H,H and L,L,H (from right to left) but as i say i just tried my gt2560 (which FYI has printed on the board that 1/16 is H,H,H) but nothing, no humming, no vibration the motors are dead so i have no clue what to try next. ive spent more time trying to get things to work than actually running the printer (i got my geeetech pro w about 2 years ago) it now looks like this and im walking away from 3d printing! [image: IMG_20191218_134715] https://user-images.githubusercontent.com/58951786/71091641-5fdb2180-219d-11ea-8005-f917cded067d.jpg [image: IMG_20191218_135344] https://user-images.githubusercontent.com/58951786/71091908-fe678280-219d-11ea-8663-3a5df98e6640.jpg — You are receiving this because you commented. Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub <#58?email_source=notifications&email_token=AI2WIQRMXCA4DVOBGA2PYKLQZITYNA5CNFSM4I7WEW32YY3PNVWWK3TUL52HS4DFVREXG43VMVBW63LNMVXHJKTDN5WW2ZLOORPWSZGOEHGF6RY#issuecomment-567041863>, or unsubscribe https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AI2WIQRHEQRMHLFUHS2HWBLQZITYNANCNFSM4I7WEW3Q .
sorry im lost. i have connected motor power and power to my psu, i thought the other 2 were for the heat bed which am not using ATM. i have the jumper set to use the psu and not usb. firmware flashes fine. as i say the motors are not working with the gt2560 now either. (i had it printing the night before i started the swap)
Not sure the other power lines have to be connected. I will check and let you know.
keyser187 [email protected] schrieb am Mi. 18. Dez. 2019 um 16:30:
You must have power to all three sets of power input. They do not have to be the same source. They must be connected and powered on. Jumper in middle of board. The board will power up and accept new firmware from onboard SD if the USB power is switched on. If the 5V is switched on, then the board will only power up when the main power is connected. … <#m_-8402117033846758476_> On Wed, Dec 18, 2019 at 7:56 AM keyser187 @.***> wrote: sry no, they sent no pic of the jumpers. ive been using the same as you H,H,H and L,L,H (from right to left) but as i say i just tried my gt2560 (which FYI has printed on the board that 1/16 is H,H,H) but nothing, no humming, no vibration the motors are dead so i have no clue what to try next. ive spent more time trying to get things to work than actually running the printer (i got my geeetech pro w about 2 years ago) it now looks like this and im walking away from 3d printing! [image: IMG_20191218_134715] https://user-images.githubusercontent.com/58951786/71091641-5fdb2180-219d-11ea-8005-f917cded067d.jpg [image: IMG_20191218_135344] https://user-images.githubusercontent.com/58951786/71091908-fe678280-219d-11ea-8663-3a5df98e6640.jpg — You are receiving this because you commented. Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub <#58 https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-PRO-V1.1/issues/58?email_source=notifications&email_token=AI2WIQRMXCA4DVOBGA2PYKLQZITYNA5CNFSM4I7WEW32YY3PNVWWK3TUL52HS4DFVREXG43VMVBW63LNMVXHJKTDN5WW2ZLOORPWSZGOEHGF6RY#issuecomment-567041863>, or unsubscribe https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AI2WIQRHEQRMHLFUHS2HWBLQZITYNANCNFSM4I7WEW3Q .
sorry im lost. i have connected motor power and power to my psu, i thought the other 2 were for the heat bed which am not using ATM. i have the jumper set to use the psu and not usb. firmware flashes fine. as i say the motors are not working with the gt2560 now either. (i had it printing the night before i started the swap)
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Hello keyser187.
I have tested the SKR Pro v1.1 with TMC2209 with only power connected to 1-4 (so Motor Power and Main Power) and it works.
Thanks for trying that out for me and confirming. With the fricking day I've had I thought sod it and brought some cheap tmc2208's, I believe they are standalone and not uart (just want to get it working first). Should be here 2mora so I'm sure I'll be having another bad day 2mora!!
If the A4988 are not working and we can walk you through proper hardware setup and you have the proper basics set in the configuration. Then you likely have something else wrong. Like a an ESD nuked controller. ESD can kill a board not just by it being unprotected and you having touched it. But also by spinning a motor by hand while connected by wire to the board. There are other ways, I have seen the burned boards. Though I am less clear on how that happens. Regardless. Switching hardware right now. Should have an an answer Very soon. My expectation is to see the motors move as expected based on the old configuration.
On Wed, Dec 18, 2019 at 1:13 PM keyser187 [email protected] wrote:
Thanks for trying that out for me and confirming. With the fricking day I've had I thought sod it and brought some cheap tmc2208's, I believe they are standalone and not uart (just want to get it working first). Should be here 2mora so I'm sure I'll be having another bad day 2mora!!
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Attached are the files I alter.
PlatformIO.ini, is altered for viability, and need, not function. Not changing the PlatformIO.ini with the one I have, will change nothing. Just be sure you select the right environment. Mine, the default is the SKR PRO so there is less risk of oops.
Configuration.h and Configuration_adv.h are configured for my machine. This includes the feed rates for my motors and my drivers as well as a tweak to bring the system fan on when the drivers are used. EEPROM and SD cards are enabled. However SD card enable in in default so, Marlin will auto configure, meaning differences should not matter. EEPROM and the Fan tweak require the Pins file to be tweaked. Too.
For testing with my files. My instruction is to Download a clean ZIP directly from Marlin for the Release version of Marlin2.0. Please do not use any other variant, including BTT version or Nightly build. Using the attached files that are best suited for testing your configuration, Drag and drop the contents onto the your newly downloaded copy. Keep mind, that this needs to happen one level up from Marlin. You should see the Marlin folder in the folder you are pasting into. You should not be inside Marlin. Doing this right the contents will perfectly replace what they need to.
Now open Visual Studio and open folder, select the new folder you just created and merged. Wait for it to do its cataloging. Then instruct go into configuration and check to be sure the LCD configuration is good for your build. Otherwise you will get a blank screen. Do not change anything else if possible for this test. Now, build the environment. When the file is moved to the SD and the SD is installed. After the lights stop flickering and the Controller has rebooted. Now from the menu, select "Configuration" then "Restore failsafe." Not doing this will result in previously loaded possibly bad values being used for the test. You should repeat this when switching to your own build, or any other variant.
Bear in mind. All this should tell you is if you have something configured wrong or if you have a hardware issue. If you get Nada. Something is very wrong. It might be user error, it might be hardware failure. But you should get some kind of life otherwise.
Both ST820 and A4988 have been tested with and verified working.
Marlin2(A4988).zip Marlin2(ST820).zip
Thanks for trying that out for me and confirming. With the fricking day I've had I thought sod it and brought some cheap tmc2208's, I believe they are standalone and not uart (just want to get it working first). Should be here 2mora so I'm sure I'll be having another bad day 2mora!!
Given the number of variables and new issues that TMC introduce I strongly suggest NOT playing with them until your A4988 are working. Plus A4988 are dirt cheep to blow and replace. Your TMC2208 are not as cheep.
This is like strapping a jet engine to air plane missing a wing. We need to fix the wing first. Then we can talk about upgrades. Please focus on getting the controller behaving right before upgrading.
Hi rflulling.
In case the board would be broken, i would expect other stepper drivers to fail also, but the 2209 are working fine. But you are right and this is the reason why i ordered a second board - just to be sure. Usually i work "electrically grounded" (hope you say it like this;-), but there have been exceptions due to the many tests i made in too little time. I checked the config files and besides the second Y and E steppers and the Babystepping which i have turned off, i can not see any obviously important differences. But i will follow your very detailed and also very helpful instructions above as soon as possible and let you know.
THANK YOU
Georg
Hi again.
I understand everything but this: Now from the menu, select "Configuration" then "Restore failsafe." Not doing this will result in previously loaded possibly bad values being used for the test. You should repeat this when switching to your own build, or any other variant.
Is this something i have to do in VSC or on the printer (its display)?
Thank you
i believe its from your display. its basically clearing everything from the memory etc and restoring "factory settings" which will be the firmware you just flashed, so you can be double sure its only using that. i maybe wrong tho
OK. I am using a TFT28 and not an LCD. Not sure i have seen this in the menu there before but will check.
The safe option to never forget to load the configured values during tests, is to disable the EEPROM (persistent storage) option at all. Always compiling in new values lasts a bit, but it's much faster than testing not the values you believe in. On the long term this saves time if you tend to make errors with M50x, or that's what fails .
at last my 2208s came, plugged em in and working (well the x axis so far) so it looks like ALL 4 of my a4988 broke somehow. have to say tho, BTT support was pretty good. They replied to all emails within 24hrs (im uk, them china) polite and even sent me a modified firmware to try. sry i couldnt help anyone with the same problems but im sure rflullings fix will work, they put a lot of work into that it seems.
Thought I would give it one more try just to make sure - have not looked back since getting the 2209's - using "freshly" downloaded marlin 2.0 and rflullings post (files and photo) I am still seeing the same. 2209's work, drv8825's work, a4988's do not work(on the SKR). And it is not an issue with the a4988's or motors since they work on the ramps board or maybe the difference is the a4988's ( I have clones) - @rflulling looks like you use a mix of actual polulus and clones?
Hi again.
I understand everything but this: Now from the menu, select "Configuration" then "Restore failsafe." Not doing this will result in previously loaded possibly bad values being used for the test. You should repeat this when switching to your own build, or any other variant. Is this something i have to do in VSC or on the printer (its display)? Thank you
This will be on your printer screen. Thus for sure you will need to make this one edit. Make sure the needed define for your device is enabled.
Thought I would give it one more try just to make sure - have not looked back since getting the 2209's - using "freshly" downloaded marlin 2.0 and rflullings post (files and photo) I am still seeing the same. 2209's work, drv8825's work, a4988's do not work(on the SKR). And it is not an issue with the a4988's or motors since they work on the ramps board or maybe the difference is the a4988's ( I have clones) - @rflulling looks like you use a mix of actual polulus and clones?
Yes, they are mixed. Some came with my MKS 1.4. Some I ordered extra. Cant find any differences.
Welcome back and thanks for checking @cobrettee!
So i will disable the EEPROM in the firmware, upload it to the board and execute M502 followed by M500 using Printrun. M504 will tell me if this has been successful or not.
Hope i can find some time to do this over the weekend.
@keyser187. Enjoy your new drivers, the 2208's are great. I will try to find out what's going on with those A4988 which i only bought because i wanted to go the safe way;-)
@oldman4U thanks friend. i only have 1 driver in at the mo, need to get the motivation to rebuild the printer. i got other stuff to deal with as well. i would recommend anyone upgrading the board or thinking about it to just upgrade your steppers as well, you probably going to do it at some point (i think the a4988s will be redundant soon with all the new drivers coming out)), might as well do it together. i got the 2208s standalones so i didnt have to mess about with UART n SPI which i know nothing about yet. and thank you to everyone in this post who took time to help others.
@keyser187. You are very welcome! I try to make them work to be able to help others, once done, i will never use them again. I have everything working fine, SKR Pro with 2209, sensorless homing and BLTouch based ABL. Nice TFT28 also works fine. WIFI or Octoprint, Direct drive and maybe dual extrusion will eventually follow one day. Wish you happy holidays and do not forget. It is just a hobby!
@oldman4U merry xmas to you and yours as well. yea its a hobby, but a hobby i know nothing about and using it as a distraction lol (always been interested in electronics, just never done it, im now old as well) i would also continue to help but i have no idea how to check if my a4988s still actually work
Follow this ticket and maybe one day we will find out what the problem is/was and then you can test it if you want. I will soon get my second board, so i can test and use my printer at the same time. ;-)
@oldman4U fancy telling me how you got your bltouch to work? lol
x/y home fine, moves to middle, z goes up a little and then nothing. assigned z min pin to PA2, inverting set to false, plugged into the probe pins with white,black,orange,red, and brown not connected. (as in the BTT manual pic). manual deploy and stow work as they should through the lcd menu as does the self test.
sorry its off topic, been looking everywhere and you mentioned you had it working.
nevermind i think i worked it out, changed back to uses z min endstop and changed the pin on the pins page from PG8 to PA2.
Hi keyser187.
PA2 has to be used, right. I had the same problem you have (had) until I realised that the BIQU TFT28 display I use is more or less a computer, sending gcode commands to the mainboard. And of course I had to learn which files I can edit and even more important, which files I should not change;-). After that I edited the right file and now it works. Please see attached screenshot for more informations and please keep in mind that I am a beginner. So it is easily possible that I do something wrong or that there is a better way to do this. Hope this helps
@oldman4U ah, I use the discount reprap 1 (lcd2004). I'm pretty much a "newb" as well. I think I was confused, I thought the BLT replaced the z min switch but I think you can have both. I didn't have z min switch installed as I took it off because the gt2560 used the z min socket. I only found out by trying the black/white wires in the z min socket and it worked as it should. So just to be safe I changed the z min pin to the bltouch socket pin (pa2) on the pins page so I could use the grd on that socket as well, not sure if that matters but better safe than sry. Thanks for the help, sry it was slightly off topic.
Bear in mind the more you Change from a known good working file the greater the odds something you have changed will cause you trouble again.
There is nothing wrong with making files that suit your needs exactly. But bear the risk in reintroducing an error without having ever known it was an error.
Thus my hopes were that each of you would pour over the instructions from BTT, and the many others who have these parts. Pour over my notes. Then load the firmware. Power it up, just for a moment, see if anything works when you try to move. If still no. We can eliminate firmware from suspect list.
However one point is did forget. After boot, you will NOT be able to use any negative values in movement. That is because the Firmware will assume you are at ZERO and no further movement is possible. G28s make an exception to this as it will try to move at a controlled rate and decelerate even. It expects an end stop trigger. If one is not found it will half the firmware to protect the hardware.
So if you have your motors removed and just hooked up by cable. All you need do is enter into motion controls on the Printers menu. Drive each motor 10mm once or twice.
One more thing. BTT and most driver vendors will WARN, so not calibrate your POT on the driver while the card is powered on. This is becuase you can generate noise that will damage the driver. You can also short it out without realizing it. So use Caution.
With the fan ports pointing skyward and the driver sockets facing down, all of the POT or Variable Resistors on the Drivers will also face skyward in alignment. This ONLY applies to the A4988 and the ST820. You should always check the pin outs to make sure they line up. Connecting them backwards, and powering on the controller will result in something getting toasted. The fuse should blow. But nothing says that it will. More likely something will blow you cant see.
Now, all that said, my calibration point for the for all of my motors, is turn the flat side of the POT so it faces up. Same as the fan ports. Then gently turn it to the right, so that the the left point of the flat edge is maybe 1.5mm from the solder point on the right side edge of the POT. If you turn to far your motors will do nothing. If you don't far enough they will grind shudder, and make all kinds of noises.
And with that I think I have given all I can give. I wish you all good luck.
On Fri, Dec 20, 2019 at 4:11 PM keyser187 [email protected] wrote:
@oldman4U https://github.com/oldman4U ah, I use the discount reprap 1 (lcd2004). I'm pretty much a "newb" as well. I think I was confused, I thought the BLT replaced the z min switch but I think you can have both. I didn't have z min switch installed as I took it off because the gt2560 used the z min socket. I only found out by trying the black/white wires in the z min socket and it worked as it should. So just to be safe I changed the z min pin to the bltouch socket pin (pa2) on the pins page so I could use the grd on that socket as well, not sure if that matters but better safe than sry. Thanks for the help, sry it was slightly off topic.
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@rflulling damn that's alot of info, thanks for putting the time in to help others, much appreciated. I never touched the POTS even on the a4988, I don't trust my shakey hands lol as all the vids I watched said to have it powered on by PSU to adjust them. I did like teaching techs idea tho to attach alligator clip to the screw driver for a "live read". On a side note, would you know how to check if the a4988s have blown?
I check the behavior against others that are known good. Though i have never killed all of them.
Controller>Driver X>Cable>motor G90 G0 X100 F300
If the flat side is parallel with the edge of the Driver (facing toward the CPU, toward the fan ports, upward) and you tell the controller to move the motor something should happen. What happens tells you what needs to adjusted. What doesn't happen, tells you what is broken.
On Sat, Dec 21, 2019 at 6:57 AM keyser187 [email protected] wrote:
@rflulling https://github.com/rflulling damn that's alot of info, thanks for putting the time in to help others, much appreciated. I never touched the POTS even on the a4988, I don't trust my shakey hands lol as all the vids I watched said to have it powered on by PSU to adjust them. I did like teaching techs idea tho to attach alligator clip to the screw driver for a "live read". On a side note, would you know how to check if the a4988s have blown?
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Good morning.
Sorry for my late answer, but i was off grid the last 2 days;-)
Thank your rflulling for all the infos. I will try to find some time to test them again, using your Marlin files. In terms of hardware there is not a lot i can change. The jumpers are the same and regarding the pots of the A4988 - they can from manufacturer with around 0.6 and i tested them from the minimum they gave me up to the max in 0.1v steps. Just to make sure that we are all on the same board. Even i used 3 different motors (and i will get a 4th also), they all behave the same. They "move", but not linear in the direction i defined in Printrun, but it's more that the shake. Maybe a movie says more than 1000 words. Update asap. Thank you all again and happy holidays
at this point, I think we need to see what each of you are working with. A quick look at the controllers, wires and drives, and the watch the motion control test. If I would send a video. I am afraid it would not show anything other than it works. We need to see the ones that dont, and what is causing that.
If the motor shakes. That's something. From here it might be a crossed wire, it might be to little or to much amperage.
Yes some cables are made wrong. Yes some motors use a different pin out and a user must LEARN to validate the pin outs.
- Best tip I ever saw, use an LED. Leave the cable connected to the motor, and from either side of the cable. But disconnect from the driver/controller. Two pins in, the other in your hand, turn the motor. Map the sequence of wires on paper. Map which ones are pairs. Check this to the specifications for the motor, and the Controller. You might find that a couple wires are reversed. In fact this one can be a nuisance to get right, simple as it should be. But its worth the time to sort out.
Other than this its POT adjustment.
If you load my configurations for test. The Movement will be set approximate for Nema17, and the A4988, on a belt driven 20 tooth. Z is set a bit wackier, for belt driven rise and fall. I did not give this much thought when building the file that this value set may not be useful to each of you.
On Mon, Dec 23, 2019 at 2:59 AM oldman4U [email protected] wrote:
Good morning.
Sorry for my late answer, but i was off grid the last 2 days;-)
Thank your rflulling for all the infos. I will try to find some time to test them again, using your Marlin files. In terms of hardware there is not a lot i can change. The jumpers are the same and regarding the pots of the A4988 - they can from manufacturer with around 0.6 and i tested them from the minimum they gave me up to the max in 0.1v steps. Just to make sure that we are all on the same board. Even i used 3 different motors (and i will get a 4th also), they all behave the same. They "move", but not linear in the direction i defined in Printrun, but it's more that the shake. Maybe a movie says more than 1000 words. Update asap. Thank you all again and happy holidays
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The 3 cables/motors are working fine on the same Skr using 2209 and on a SKR E3 DIP. I checked the motor connectors using my multimeter and i had to twist the inner cables.
Not sure if the motor pin layout can change when using different drivers.
I would love to get a movie from you to see it work for the first time.
rflulling [email protected] schrieb am Mo. 23. Dez. 2019 um 15:53:
at this point, I think we need to see what each of you are working with. A quick look at the controllers, wires and drives, and the watch the motion control test. If I would send a video. I am afraid it would not show anything other than it works. We need to see the ones that dont, and what is causing that.
If the motor shakes. That's something. From here it might be a crossed wire, it might be to little or to much amperage.
Yes some cables are made wrong. Yes some motors use a different pin out and a user must LEARN to validate the pin outs.
- Best tip I ever saw, use an LED. Leave the cable connected to the motor, and from either side of the cable. But disconnect from the driver/controller. Two pins in, the other in your hand, turn the motor. Map the sequence of wires on paper. Map which ones are pairs. Check this to the specifications for the motor, and the Controller. You might find that a couple wires are reversed. In fact this one can be a nuisance to get right, simple as it should be. But its worth the time to sort out.
Other than this its POT adjustment.
If you load my configurations for test. The Movement will be set approximate for Nema17, and the A4988, on a belt driven 20 tooth. Z is set a bit wackier, for belt driven rise and fall. I did not give this much thought when building the file that this value set may not be useful to each of you.
On Mon, Dec 23, 2019 at 2:59 AM oldman4U [email protected] wrote:
Good morning.
Sorry for my late answer, but i was off grid the last 2 days;-)
Thank your rflulling for all the infos. I will try to find some time to test them again, using your Marlin files. In terms of hardware there is not a lot i can change. The jumpers are the same and regarding the pots of the A4988 - they can from manufacturer with around 0.6 and i tested them from the minimum they gave me up to the max in 0.1v steps. Just to make sure that we are all on the same board. Even i used 3 different motors (and i will get a 4th also), they all behave the same. They "move", but not linear in the direction i defined in Printrun, but it's more that the shake. Maybe a movie says more than 1000 words. Update asap. Thank you all again and happy holidays
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Not at all sure what if anything I could show that has not been explained. What are you looking for? Further any movies are A relative to my unique configuration. B require me to take apart and switch parts every time. I did not mind doing this to verify that nothing has changed in the code. But that's done. So we know the code is good. -as long as instructions are followed. C keep in mind my setup is ST820. I only hold the distinction of having used the very configuration said to not work, and had no issues. This is not my current configuration.
I can look at making something more in depth. Maybe some video. But I don't know when I will get the time.
On Mon, Dec 23, 2019 at 9:07 AM oldman4U [email protected] wrote:
The 3 cables/motors are working fine on the same Skr using 2209 and on a SKR E3 DIP. I checked the motor connectors using my multimeter and i had to twist the inner cables.
Not sure if the motor pin layout can change when using different drivers.
I would love to get a movie from you to see it work for the first time.
rflulling [email protected] schrieb am Mo. 23. Dez. 2019 um 15:53:
at this point, I think we need to see what each of you are working with. A quick look at the controllers, wires and drives, and the watch the motion control test. If I would send a video. I am afraid it would not show anything other than it works. We need to see the ones that dont, and what is causing that.
If the motor shakes. That's something. From here it might be a crossed wire, it might be to little or to much amperage.
Yes some cables are made wrong. Yes some motors use a different pin out and a user must LEARN to validate the pin outs.
- Best tip I ever saw, use an LED. Leave the cable connected to the motor, and from either side of the cable. But disconnect from the driver/controller. Two pins in, the other in your hand, turn the motor. Map the sequence of wires on paper. Map which ones are pairs. Check this to the specifications for the motor, and the Controller. You might find that a couple wires are reversed. In fact this one can be a nuisance to get right, simple as it should be. But its worth the time to sort out.
Other than this its POT adjustment.
If you load my configurations for test. The Movement will be set approximate for Nema17, and the A4988, on a belt driven 20 tooth. Z is set a bit wackier, for belt driven rise and fall. I did not give this much thought when building the file that this value set may not be useful to each of you.
On Mon, Dec 23, 2019 at 2:59 AM oldman4U [email protected] wrote:
Good morning.
Sorry for my late answer, but i was off grid the last 2 days;-)
Thank your rflulling for all the infos. I will try to find some time to test them again, using your Marlin files. In terms of hardware there is not a lot i can change. The jumpers are the same and regarding the pots of the A4988 - they can from manufacturer with around 0.6 and i tested them from the minimum they gave me up to the max in 0.1v steps. Just to make sure that we are all on the same board. Even i used 3 different motors (and i will get a 4th also), they all behave the same. They "move", but not linear in the direction i defined in Printrun, but it's more that the shake. Maybe a movie says more than 1000 words. Update asap. Thank you all again and happy holidays
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Hi I was also struggling with this issue. I have 2209 on XY and drv on Z and E. My z was not working at all. Then i remembered there were few jumpers attached to Z1 port. 1 between 1,2 and another between 3,4. If you remove them you won't find a connection from drivers 1A,1B,2A,2B to port where you attach motor. Looks like motors are in series (?)
Please check continuity on your board and attach jumpers if needed. Also, jumper connection for micro-stepping are confusing as hell. If exactly different in the documentation where they are showing giving ground to microstepping pin.
Hello.
I am back from vacation and work nd hope to be able to do some more testing this week, where I should also get my new SKR Pro v1.1 to see if the board is broken.
@karandex Thank you for your help. Reading my previous posts, do you have the feeling that we missed a single jumper configuration which could probably work. I tested with single Z (jumpers set) and dual Z (jumpers removed and 2nd stepper motor connected instead) and it never worked with the A4988 and worked immediately using the same configurations using 2209. I believe this issue has passed the point where a simple configuration issue is the reason for it. Instead we have 2 users given up on this and one user who made it work somehow, but nobody has been able to repeat this.
@rflulling . It would have been great to see it working properly after weeks trying to get it to work. And a movie shows it best. I just downloaded your Marlin files and hope to find time to test it this week. Sorry for the delay. If I get my second board this week, I can make an exclusive testing environment just for the A4988. Maybe we should make a contest..... Who is able to make it work first (except you - sorry;-))
Btw, these are the A4988 which I got with my SKR Pro v1.1 from BTT. Same order, same shipping - so I guess I could expect they work together.
My wife is the best;-) Of course....
So I checked the package number which I will get on Tuesday and it is the SKR. So decided to change the hardware and to test the Marlin FW I got from @rflulling now. So I did the following.
Deinstalled the 2209, set the jumpers for the A4988
and installed the A4988 for X, Y, Z and E0
.
This is the result when using MY Marlin config:
IMG_6755.MOV.zip
After that I compiled rflulling's files using Marlin v2.0.1 from Jan. 10th and changed only the stepper setting from
to
to match the fewer stepper drivers I use.
Usually my Marlin complies in less than 3 Minutes, this time it took a bit longer, but it was successfully.
After that I started Printrun, executed M502 followed by M500 and M503 to call, store and verify the default EEPROM settings. Thats the only part I am not sure I did everything right.
Then I restarted the SKR and run Printrun again. Here is the result:
So what's next? ;-(
My board us arriving today so i read this thread for info. Currently have gt2560+ with tmc2100 on X Y and A4988 on Z and E. I dont understand why marlin needs any settings for A4988 other than knowing the max step rate and the steps per unit. What #define MICROSTEP16 does is beyond me. In @oldman4U pic above the jumpers look correct the red row of jumpers are HIGH so jumpering all three ms pins should pull the respective ms pins high on a4988 to tell it to do 16 micro steps. I am not against getting some uart or spi based tmc if that solves problems idk which to get though, what are pros and cons of spi vs uart? I have a fork of marlin which solves sdcard problems ready to flash, so both sdcard usable and m500 saves to sdcard on main board. I'll report back later after amazon deliver my board.
A4988 are hardware defined stepping. You do not need to configure Marlin for this and you can leave the stepping in the configuration files commented out. See my previously attached PDF to double check your jumper configurations.
On Sat, Jan 25, 2020 at 3:30 AM spattinson [email protected] wrote:
My board us arriving today so i read this thread for info. Currently have gt2560+ with tmc2100 on X Y and A4988 on Z and E. I dont understand why marlin needs any settings for A4988 other than knowing the max step rate and the steps per unit. What #define MICROSTEP16 does is beyond me. In @oldman4U https://github.com/oldman4U pic above the jumpers look correct the red row of jumpers are HIGH so jumpering all three ms pins should pull the respective ms pins high on a4988 to tell it to do 16 micro steps. I am not against getting some uart or spi based tmc if that solves problems idk which to get though, what are pros and cons of spi vs uart? I have a fork of marlin which solves sdcard problems ready to flash, so both sdcard usable and m500 saves to sdcard on main board. I'll report back later after amazon deliver my board.
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Hello spattinson.
Thank you for joining.
In the meantime I got a second SKR Pro v1.1 and it shows the same issue using the A4988s I got with the first board. Only rflulling has been able to get his A4988 to work with this board so far and I hope you will be able so too. Would be great if you could let us know.
I really would not argue that I am the only one to get this to work. Many start out with A4988. Some of you are having an issue that is not fully understood. The firmware is the same for us all. What differs is the configuration file and the hardware itself. If the configuration file is clean, or a known good state that should compile every time. Then the hardware is the suspect.
BigTreeTech is lazy they have no interest in fixing the 1.1 and believe me I am watching. I am connected to the groups from BTT on Facebook, both their generic group and the group just for the SKR PRO.
Big tree has launched I think now 4 maybe 5 products since the SKR PRO. Including the Turbo and the GTR. But so far have made not created a 1.2 or better of the SKR PRO. Their interest is to get one working and keep sling out the next thing. They have demonstrated zero interest in fixing anything once launched. They don't even support Marlin in anyway shape or form other than the sample code they supply for users at launch of a product.
So your suspects, are a bad board. It might be faulty or accidental damage. Your drivers, may be tuned wrong or wired to the motors wrong. Yes this is freaking easy to mess up and it creates all kinds of weird bat shit crazy results. Drivers may be faulty. Might be accidental damage. Power supply may not be hooked up right or is faulty. Jumpers might be set wrong.
This forum, where this topic is posted is one place where users gather but its restricted compared to Facebook Forums. Then there is the Marlin Forums, the more de-facto location to report issues with the firmware, if you can gather evidence to support the bug claim. People ask for help there to, but really help should with set tup and configuration should be asked for here and on Facebook. There is also the Marlin group on Facebook.
I am no less committed to offering help now than I was when I first spotted this topic. However I do feel that that this issue might be better served in one of the other locations, mostly in that you will get far greater exposure to many many more who do use this configuration of SKR PRO and A4988, than just myself.
On Sat, Jan 25, 2020 at 5:42 PM oldman4U [email protected] wrote:
Hello spattinson.
Thank you for joining.
In the meantime I got a second SKR Pro v1.1 and it shows the same issue using the A4988s I got with the first board. Only rflulling has been able to get his A4988 to work with this board so far and I hope you will be able so too. Would be great if you could let us know.
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My board arrived and I have a ready flashed esp01s my drivers are all working. I had a long period of messing around before I realise the 250000 does not work, changed to 115200 and it works. so my A8498 and TMC2100 drivers work fine.. I need to work on my BLtouch tomorrow as its getting late now, but at least xyz motors work and XY endstops work. ESP3D command work, USB does not work. Have serial ports set to -1 (usb not work) and 6 (esp3d working).
The Marlin 2.0 branch, the official version should support the USB port. I think there is also a define for it in the configuration_adv
On Sat, Jan 25, 2020 at 8:07 PM spattinson [email protected] wrote:
My board arrived and I have a ready flashed esp01s my drivers are all working. I had a long period of messing around before I realise the 250000 does not work, changed to 115200 and it works. so my A8498 and TMC2100 drivers work fine.. I need to work on my BLtouch tomorrow as its getting late now, but at least xyz motors work and XY endstops work. ESP3D command work, USB does not work. Have serial ports set to -1 (usb not work) and 6 (esp3d working).
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@rflulling So I should have been more precisely by saying related to this ticket, you have been the only one.... But it seems that we have now also spattinson able to use the A4988. I agree that for the price of the board support can not be expected and I bought a second board just to make sure it is not the board. If you think I should close this ticket here, because the issue is not firmware related I can do so. I have a solution which works, but the same time we do not know how many potential buyers bought another driver because of this ticket, avoiding the same issue I have seen
@spattinson What was the problem with 250000. Works fine for me using a TFT28.
@oldman4U I get no communication at 250000, not even garbled characters, I'll revisit that when I get everything else working. Change to 115200 and it works via ESP3D, also USB port works now, had to enable DTR option in Pronterface. Both EXT1 and EXT2 are backwards LCD is now working, I pulled the shells off the connectors on the LCD display so I could attach the plugs reversed.
No I'm not asking you to close your ticket. But I encourage you and everyone who is having difficulty with the setup to consider all available options for sources of assistance. Also consider there are likely hundreds if not even possibly thousands of us like me who use the same or have you used the same configuration without issue. And I would like for you to consider that because there are many others out there who have done this then perhaps in an alternative venue you may receive better assistance then I alone my offer to you. As I said I have not abandoned looking at ways to assist you. I simply want you to consider alternatives.
On Sun, Jan 26, 2020, 4:12 AM oldman4U [email protected] wrote:
@rflulling https://github.com/rflulling So I should have been more precisely by saying related to this ticket, you have been the only one.... But it seems that we have now also spattinson able to use the A4988. I agree that for the price of the board support can not be expected and I bought a second board just to make sure it is not the board. If you think I should close this ticket here, because the issue is not firmware related I can do so. I have a solution which works, but the same time we do not know how many potential buyers bought another driver because of this ticket, avoiding the same issue I have seen
@spattinson https://github.com/spattinson What was the problem with 250000. Works fine for me using a TFT28.
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@spattinson I think the Pro is a great board for the money and MARLIN changed a lot since I saw it the first time. Wish you the best.
@rflulling Even I am a beginner, I can not imagine a single thing I have not tried yet. I even bought additional hardware which I will probably never need, just to make sure that the problem is sitting in front of the computer. The board works fine for me with 2208 and 2209, 3 different kinds of stepper motors and 2 different kinds of displays. The same A4988s are working fine in a SKR E3 DIP, with all 3 motors (haven't tested the TFT28 but only the stock LCD display). So I believe that there is a little difference in the hardware which causes the issue. You as well as spattinson used the A4988s they have been using before, so it would theoretically possible that the 4988s are slightly different and that this causes the issue. Or there is a design issue in the Pro which only works with a certain kind of 4988. We do not know it and we all are willing to help each other to find the issue, but it is my feeling that we reached a point where we do not know what else we could test. So I hope that one day we get an additional information which helps us to understand where the problem comes from. Or I close the ticket and say "who cares", I found a solution which works for me and I do not care if others have the same issue. But that's usually something I try to avoid;-)
So i hope we can find the issue one day - and close this endless ticket.
250000 works for me now. I am not sure what the issue was, at that time pronterface didn't work but esp3d did wotk. The steps i took were to reduce to 115200 then enabled dtr option. Both ports work. Change speed to 250000 that works too now. Esp3d may require reboot to change speed. Both my tmc2100 and A4988 are standalone drivers. Idk what the issue is with people here and them not working, a4988 require SLP and RST pins connected together. Which is handled by the jumper mentioned in official doc.
Hi spattinson.
I started this ticket because the A4988 does not work on my board, but i am happy to hear that you do not have this issue. Jumpers are configured according to the manuals, of course.
Hi @oldman4U My jumpers are the same as your picture a few replies up. My config attached if its any use config.zip for completeness this is from pins_BTT_SKR_PRO_V1_1.h I can't think what must be wrong with your setup. Have you checked fuse F2 15A (blue)?
#define X_STEP_PIN PE9
#define X_DIR_PIN PF1
#define X_ENABLE_PIN PF2
#ifndef X_CS_PIN
#define X_CS_PIN PA15
#endif
#define Y_STEP_PIN PE11
#define Y_DIR_PIN PE8
#define Y_ENABLE_PIN PD7
#ifndef Y_CS_PIN
#define Y_CS_PIN PB8
#endif
#define Z_STEP_PIN PE13
#define Z_DIR_PIN PC2
#define Z_ENABLE_PIN PC0
#ifndef Z_CS_PIN
#define Z_CS_PIN PB9
#endif
#define E0_STEP_PIN PE14
#define E0_DIR_PIN PA0
#define E0_ENABLE_PIN PC3
#ifndef E0_CS_PIN
#define E0_CS_PIN PB3
#endif
Why are you looking to change the pin map?
My assumption, the issue is in handling. As a result something is burned or broke. I sent the configurations I use.
Maybe each of you put together a folder in the same format as I assembled. Zip it and post it fir me. I will compare to my own.
Note, I am now on Marlin 2.0.0 official. I rebuild my configuration files new with every update. My build folders are always clean. I never merge builds. Only unique configuration data.
I expect to be arround this weekend. So lets give this one more go.
On Thu, Jan 30, 2020, 12:02 PM spattinson [email protected] wrote:
Hi @oldman4U https://github.com/oldman4U My jumpers are the same as your picture a few replies up. My config attached if its any use config.zip https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-PRO-V1.1/files/4135459/config.zip for completeness this is from pins_BTT_SKR_PRO_V1_1.h I can't think what must be wrong with your setup. Have you checked fuse F2 15A (blue)?
#define X_STEP_PIN PE9 #define X_DIR_PIN PF1 #define X_ENABLE_PIN PF2 #ifndef X_CS_PIN #define X_CS_PIN PA15 #endif
#define Y_STEP_PIN PE11 #define Y_DIR_PIN PE8 #define Y_ENABLE_PIN PD7 #ifndef Y_CS_PIN #define Y_CS_PIN PB8 #endif
#define Z_STEP_PIN PE13 #define Z_DIR_PIN PC2 #define Z_ENABLE_PIN PC0 #ifndef Z_CS_PIN #define Z_CS_PIN PB9 #endif
#define E0_STEP_PIN PE14 #define E0_DIR_PIN PA0 #define E0_ENABLE_PIN PC3 #ifndef E0_CS_PIN #define E0_CS_PIN PB3 #endif
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@rflulling Your document on Driver Configuration found here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1AK4_RM3cvM4ar4Fx1Kf7UHncVgKvZTg5/view?usp=drivesdk I have a question, can you add text explaining your designations for TMCxxxx in UART mode?? What does E mean in Vref pin? What does R mean in the Diag pin? What does the S mean in the CLK pin? I think I understand the D on the two jumpers means to connect both jumpers labeled D. In TMC 2130 spi mode: What does the C mean in NC labeled pin? And again what does R mean in the Diag pin and what does the E mean in the Vref Pin? I get that the numbers 1,2,3,4 means to set the jumpers across those pins. On the TMC5160 spi mode: what does C mean in the CLK pin? What does E mean in the Vref pin? And what does R mean in the Diag pin? I get that i need to connect the jumpers on the pins labeled 1,2,3,4. Sorry for the long question.
@oldman4U I want to report that I attached all A4988 to my SKR PRO V1.1 and they work for me.
Hi spattinson.
Could you please verify, that you have the same A4988s i have?
I will check the config file asap, thank you.
@rflulling I used two different SKR v1.1, 3 different types of stepper motors and have 6 A4988 stepper motor drivers to test. Do you have a particular piece of hardware in mind or is this what you believe. I believe that this is a design issue which only comes up using a specific combination of board, driver, software, and so on.
@GadgetAngel Would you please be so kind to send me pictures of your stepper motors and more information about your setup. For example how many A4988 you are using and if there are other stepper motor drivers used and which one.
Thank you
Some extra junk for this forum started pouring in over the weekend and I created a filter. Ended up loosing these messages they came in...
So to address the question about the A4988. They are all identical chipwise. However, if you read up on it you will see that more than one savy user has discovered that the Genuine drivers and the knock offs are slightly different. Most cases this ONLY effect the chosen value of a particular resister on the board. Off the top I forget exactly what it does, and why it is important.
But needless to say, other than getting OPTIMAL behavior this should not stop the show.
However, note that your POT is dialed hard to the right? When setting up the controller this should be centered, or strait up. As it stands right now its over driving the motor, likely making it very hot to the touch, possibly blowing out the driver which cannot handle high current.
A good sign, is a noisy rattling irritating motor when you try to move it even slightly. You wont need to tell the driver to move more than 10 spaces. However. You will NEVER be able to tell it to move towards 0 until a G28 command has been executed successfully. It will attempt to move away from start up to the max that you have designated for travel on that axis even if there isn't enough space or the stepping is wrong, it wont care. So positive motion only without G28. The exception to this, if you moved X28, the controller will let you move X-28. Assuming that the start point is Zero.
Now if the motor rattles a bit, you can Tweek the POT which should get it moving smoothly. If not set back to center and check the Configuration, make sure thats correct. If you are using mine as a template, you should be golden.
Next check the wires.
A nifty trick is to put a simple LED over the an expected pin pair on the motor. See if it lights up. Yes this can kill the LED you might need more than 1. The LED can help you identify voltage direction and which pins correspond to a coil. Nema 17 should have two coils. Likewise you have two pairs of wires coming from each driver.
So now you need to carefully check the wire diagrams from the motor vendor against the data you collected by hand with the LED and the wire diagrams from the Driver vendor. Carefully trace the wire pairs.
Bad wires can cause the two coils to fight against each other, can cause shuddering, reverse motor behavior, and even only a single coil driving.
Also note, it is not at all impossible to do something stupid simple like assign the wrong channel to a driver, so that when trying to move X you actually move Y or an unassigned driver.
You should never run a driver without a load. The motor is the load.
If you ever attempt to adjust the POT while the controller is trying to move the axis. Well, you can but you risk shorting out the the driver and with it the voltage regulator on the Controller. So do this with great risk.
If you do kill a driver it may still operate but behavior will be unstable.
You should never run a motor in any direction while connected by wire to the Controller. The motor will act as a generator and blow out the gate on the Driver.
Some older boards had diodes that allowed this and the controller would even boot up as long as a motor was being pushed. Most 32bit boards are not at all tolerant of this and will just die.
I guess I have been lucky. I think I nuked 3 Drivers. I think they are dead but i am not sure. I have only had the one SKR PRO and have flashed it many times as I kept updating it while Marlin was working towards full support for the SKR under 2.0 official.
@GadgetAngel
The notes are laid out per vendor specification. That is I each page the upper left is a key. Each following is a vendor specified configuration. I don't know what all of them mean. In some cases where I was able to find out and they seemed weird, I added info if I could find it.
For the most part you will line up the Ground pins and the VREF and the rest are along for the ride regardless of their maping.
UART and SPI mode I have not yet used myself so I really don't have much to any info not published. However ask of the mapping in the BTT SKR PRO user group on Facebook and I am sure there will be many happy to attempt an explanation, TMC being as popular as they are.
However if you find an error. And it is very possible. Please tell me. I will fix right away.
@GadgetAngel Would you please be so kind to send me pictures of your stepper motors and more information about your setup. For example how many A4988 you are using and if there are other stepper motor drivers used and which one.
Thank you
@oldman4U Sure, here are the A4988 drivers I have. They were bought off of Amazon this week from BIQU or BIGTREETECH. Here is the Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FFGAKK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_j5qoEb298H0TM
Here is the pictures of the A4988, I own.
I am testing out my SKR PRO V1.1, (I also sent a picture of my board with Jumpers set for A4988 for Full Step mode). I tested the A4988 out in 1/16 microstepping. My SKR Pro V1.1 board is brand new and I am testing it out throughly before putting it into use. Have you checked to see if some of your resistors are missing on the SKR Pro board? ( https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-PRO-V1.1/issues/98 ) My resistors are NOT in place. I have the following stepper drivers I will be testing so I can add to @rflulling manual on Driver Configuration: BIQU A4988; POLOLU DRV8825; FYSECT LV8729; MKS TMC2100; BIQU TMC2208 (UART); FYSECT TMC2008 (Stand-alone); FYSECT TMC2208 (OTP); BIGTREETECH TMC2130 V3.0; BIGTREETECH TMC2209 V1.1, and BIGTREETECH TMC2209 V1.2; and BIGTREETECH TMC5160 V1.2.
I bought all driver boards for testing purposes and to gain experience using them and configuring them on the MCU boards I own. This helps me learn Marlin. I own the following MCU board: Creality V1.1.4; BIGTREETECH SKRV1.3; BIGTREETECH SKRV1.4 TURBO; BIGTREETECH SKR PRO V1.1; TH3D EZboard Lite V1.0; and E3D Duet 2 Maestro.
Right now, I am testing the SKR PRO V1.1 board. So if you need some testing done, I can try to do it but I only check my email once every couple of days. I will get email about this topic. I hope this helps out.
@rflulling As soon as I am done testing my drivers. I will be updating your manual. But I have made a lot of changes. I am adding actual pictures for each jumper setting for all the Drivers. I am adding the drivers I own and testing the configuration out on the SKR PRO board. I am adding a text box with Additional info about each driver (how to calculate I-MAX and calculate V-REF). I am doubling checking your work and I added links to web pages for each of the drivers specifications pages. I will post the updated manual here when it is done. I am just now adding TMC2130 in standalone mode. When I am done updating the Driver manual I will post it here.
@rflulling
I am not sure if the information about the POT is related to me. If so, i got the 4988s at app 600mv and i tested them from the lowest (approximately 400) to the max (approximately 750) in 50mv steps. The same cables and motors are used successfully with 580 and 650mv on an Ender 3 with SKR E3 DIP mainboard and 2208 drivers as well as another SKR Pro v1.1 with 2209 drivers and the same current values.
One thing which could probably a difference we never considered to be a factor is the current used to drive the mainboard. I use 24V for all inputs, are you using 12 or 24V?
There are minor differences besides the color of the PCB and because of this i ask. Maybe there are A4988s which are working fine, my green A4988s do not work.
@GadgetAngel Hehe. Sometimes the way is really the most important thing. I have A4988, TMC 2208 and 2209 drivers, 4 different motors, 2 SKR v1.1 Pro, one SKR E3 DIP and the original mainboard from the Ender-3. The original LCD will be replaced soon by a TFT35 E3 v3 and the printer i am working on right now has a TFT28. All combinations are working fine, except the SKR Pro v1.1 with the A4988s i have. I will never use this combination but try to find the reason for the problem.
Thank you for your help, seems we will get a great user manual soon;-)