TZB-MMU2S-Firmware
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TheZeroBeast
TZB-MK3S-Extruder Design
Win! Link to Item: https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/5756-tzb-mk3s-mmu2s-extruder-no-tower/
I had something to add but already forgot. Subscribed.
Let us collaborate on this design. Propose/test/discus changes with my current design attached.
Apart from minimising the bondtech gear gap even further I don't have any issues with this design. What do others think of the design?
TZBMK3S-MK25S-Extruder.step.zip
Thank you for the files. I changed the lever part to make it little bit easier to print. Additioning to that I am using a metal pin. You will need a 3mm reamer for some holes. Let me know what you are thinking, I will do now a lot of testprints, especially with soft TPU Filaments. I am now using a titan heatbreak from RS Präzision(Germany). We will see how it will perform, until now I can say it looks very good.
TZBMK3S-MK25S-Extruder_CaiJonas.zip
Hi @CaiJonas, I've also been testing some changes I've done to reduce bondtech clearance as it was still over 1mm above gears which is unacceptably for flex.
Here is a photo of how little clearance I've gotten it down to....
So far I've been unable to jam TPU in it even when extruding fast and cool. CRAZY!!
I just reviewed your changes above and I like how you moved the lever to the other side so the tab prints flat on the bed, I'll incorporate in my next version.
I'd suggest modifying your design if you need to ream anything. I still think the grubscrew and even use of a metal pin is over complicating the situation. All well and good if you have it working although simpler the better for users printing and implementing the mod.
EDIT: Added TZB2 Extruder step file, with these changes
- Moved lever/pin to extruder back
- Pin diameter increased for more rigidity
- Minimised bondtech gear clearance
- Forgot to re-add grub location TZB2-Extruder.zip
I can't really view on the road, but in the past I've found overly constricting the door's motion didn't help, maybe hurt, but not definitive.
My complaint is the gap between plastic and gears, especially on top, sometimes unloads will wrap soft filament around the driven Bondtech.
MMU also suffers from unneeded big gaps.
Thanks!
-Abe.
Sent from my "smart"phone, please excuse brevity and Swype-oes
On Sun, Oct 13, 2019, 8:38 PM Robert McKenzie [email protected] wrote:
Hi @CaiJonas https://github.com/CaiJonas, I've also been testing some changes I've done to reduce bondtech clearance as it was still over 1mm above gears which is unacceptably for flex.
Here is a photo of how little clearance I've gotten it down to.... [image: TZB2_Extruder] https://user-images.githubusercontent.com/20939095/66715664-31417300-ee09-11e9-8cbf-f5255e784eba.jpg
So far I've been unable to jam TPU in it even when extruding fast and cool. CRAZY!!
I just reviewed your changes above and I like how you moved the lever to the other side so the tab prints flat on the bed, I'll incorporate in my next version.
I'd suggest modifying your design if you need to ream anything. I still think the grubscrew and even use of a metal pin is over complicating the situation. All well and good if you have it working although simpler the better for users printing and implementing the mod.
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Picture finally loaded! Looks like exactly what I was talking about. :-)
The other, very minor changes are to lever , the detailed shape of flag and perhaps the angle of the surface the door pin pushes on.
Sorry if I'm not much help from out here. :-(
Thanks!
-Abe.
Sent from my "smart"phone, please excuse brevity and Swype-oes
On Fri, Oct 18, 2019, 11:53 AM Abraham Mara [email protected] wrote:
I can't really view on the road, but in the past I've found overly constricting the door's motion didn't help, maybe hurt, but not definitive.
My complaint is the gap between plastic and gears, especially on top, sometimes unloads will wrap soft filament around the driven Bondtech.
MMU also suffers from unneeded big gaps.
Thanks! -Abe.Sent from my "smart"phone, please excuse brevity and Swype-oes
On Sun, Oct 13, 2019, 8:38 PM Robert McKenzie [email protected] wrote:
Hi @CaiJonas https://github.com/CaiJonas, I've also been testing some changes I've done to reduce bondtech clearance as it was still over 1mm above gears which is unacceptably for flex.
Here is a photo of how little clearance I've gotten it down to.... [image: TZB2_Extruder] https://user-images.githubusercontent.com/20939095/66715664-31417300-ee09-11e9-8cbf-f5255e784eba.jpg
So far I've been unable to jam TPU in it even when extruding fast and cool. CRAZY!!
I just reviewed your changes above and I like how you moved the lever to the other side so the tab prints flat on the bed, I'll incorporate in my next version.
I'd suggest modifying your design if you need to ream anything. I still think the grubscrew and even use of a metal pin is over complicating the situation. All well and good if you have it working although simpler the better for users printing and implementing the mod.
— You are receiving this because you commented. Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub https://github.com/TheZeroBeast/TZB-MMU2S-Firmware/issues/152?email_source=notifications&email_token=AAAKLENIOMZJISTHPQLMJ3TQOMJERA5CNFSM4I3LOMNKYY3PNVWWK3TUL52HS4DFVREXG43VMVBW63LNMVXHJKTDN5WW2ZLOORPWSZGOEBCVM5Y#issuecomment-541415031, or unsubscribe https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AAAKLEOA5L7ETR6CWESFG5DQOMJERANCNFSM4I3LOMNA .
I like what you did. Suggestions: Small chamfer after gears (only on one side I think, not needed on lower side) Add meat above gears and let PTFE get closer.
Both are pretty small and might be hard to pull off.
Thanks!
-Abe.
Sent from my "smart"phone, please excuse brevity and Swype-oes
On Fri, Oct 18, 2019, 11:56 AM Abraham Mara [email protected] wrote:
Picture finally loaded! Looks like exactly what I was talking about. :-)
The other, very minor changes are to lever , the detailed shape of flag and perhaps the angle of the surface the door pin pushes on.
Sorry if I'm not much help from out here. :-(
Thanks! -Abe.Sent from my "smart"phone, please excuse brevity and Swype-oes
On Fri, Oct 18, 2019, 11:53 AM Abraham Mara [email protected] wrote:
I can't really view on the road, but in the past I've found overly constricting the door's motion didn't help, maybe hurt, but not definitive.
My complaint is the gap between plastic and gears, especially on top, sometimes unloads will wrap soft filament around the driven Bondtech.
MMU also suffers from unneeded big gaps.
Thanks! -Abe.Sent from my "smart"phone, please excuse brevity and Swype-oes
On Sun, Oct 13, 2019, 8:38 PM Robert McKenzie [email protected] wrote:
Hi @CaiJonas https://github.com/CaiJonas, I've also been testing some changes I've done to reduce bondtech clearance as it was still over 1mm above gears which is unacceptably for flex.
Here is a photo of how little clearance I've gotten it down to.... [image: TZB2_Extruder] https://user-images.githubusercontent.com/20939095/66715664-31417300-ee09-11e9-8cbf-f5255e784eba.jpg
So far I've been unable to jam TPU in it even when extruding fast and cool. CRAZY!!
I just reviewed your changes above and I like how you moved the lever to the other side so the tab prints flat on the bed, I'll incorporate in my next version.
I'd suggest modifying your design if you need to ream anything. I still think the grubscrew and even use of a metal pin is over complicating the situation. All well and good if you have it working although simpler the better for users printing and implementing the mod.
— You are receiving this because you commented. Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub https://github.com/TheZeroBeast/TZB-MMU2S-Firmware/issues/152?email_source=notifications&email_token=AAAKLENIOMZJISTHPQLMJ3TQOMJERA5CNFSM4I3LOMNKYY3PNVWWK3TUL52HS4DFVREXG43VMVBW63LNMVXHJKTDN5WW2ZLOORPWSZGOEBCVM5Y#issuecomment-541415031, or unsubscribe https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AAAKLEOA5L7ETR6CWESFG5DQOMJERANCNFSM4I3LOMNA .
@TheZeroBeast we did a lot of research in our company with printing soft filaments. You are correct with reducing the gaps, additioning to that there are some other important things to do but it's not possible with the Prusa Mk3. We are able to print filaments with a hardness of shore a60. I have problems with loading the flex filaments. Sometimes it wraps around the gears in the main unit. Next step for me is changing the gaps in the main unit.
Yes, gaps in the MMU2S unit kill the flex at times, very large gaps around the gears. I wonder why it was ever designed with such crazy tolerances. I've even seen bits of PLA jammed in around the gears in the MMU2S.
@TheZeroBeast Here is my design of the main unit. Didn't had the time to test it very much until now. You can change the tolerances of the insert, so it's not nessesary to print the hole unit again. Let me know what you are thinking.
Caution: You have to shorten the grub screws to 2mm
Best Regards mmu2-pulley-body_CaiJonas_9mm v2.zip
Do you have the proper length of the PTFE tubing that goes in the top of the hot end? I'd like to make a cutting jig for it (if you don't expect it to change in the near future).
Hey @habitforming11, I keep forgetting to measure when I have my extruder apart but will try get a length.
@CaiJonas, still getting to having a look at you step sorry. What grub screws did you have to shorten to 2mm? The bondtech retaining grub screw?
CaiJonas : Here is my design of the main unit. Didn't had the time to test it very much until now. You can change the tolerances of the insert, so it's not nessesary to print the hole unit again. Let me know what you are thinking.
Caution: You have to shorten the grub screws to 2mm
Best Regards mmu2-pulley-body_CaiJonas_9mm v2.zip
Why can't you do this all as one piece? Does the central section bolt in just to make it easier to test?
If you have access to square nuts, I'd suggest using them - I have the hex-nuts spin loose fairly often because I take out my aggression on small defenseless metric hardware. I'm certainly interested in trying it out if it at least works some. :-)
@TheZeroBeast What's the current state of the extruder? Is it "stable"? Does it use extra parts? Is the version on the Prusa site the one to use?
@AbeFM the central section is just for testing. Didn't had the time until now to test it very much. I'm fine with the m3 nuts, keep an eye on the suggested torque. A screwdriver beetween two fingers is more than enough :) If you want to do correctly use threated inserts for plastic. Feel free to test and optimise the design.
Just a suggestion on the square nuts. I don't love the idea of adding in a less reliable feature that's there to increase reliability - my lived experience points to the square nuts working all the time and the hex's working most of the time, if you're careful. The heat-set stuff works, though then it's pick about print settings, you can't easily get them back, each one adds a chance of messing up the whole part, etc. Not bad for one in a part, troubling for 8.
The only difference in your outer-body are the nut retainers and the channel cut for the insert? Can you share the original CAD files?
CaiJonas : Here is my design of the main unit. Didn't had the time to test it very much until now. You can change the tolerances of the insert, so it's not nessesary to print the hole unit again. Let me know what you are thinking. Caution: You have to shorten the grub screws to 2mm Best Regards mmu2-pulley-body_CaiJonas_9mm v2.zip
Why can't you do this all as one piece? Does the central section bolt in just to make it easier to test?
To test, as you thought. Although I wouldn't see a point to change it without some benefits to justify.
If you have access to square nuts, I'd suggest using them - I have the hex-nuts spin loose fairly often because I take out my aggression on small defenseless metric hardware. I'm certainly interested in trying it out if it at least works some. :-)
😂 too much torque, poor little guys. I think the hex is fine but be my gust if you need more grip 👍
@TheZeroBeast What's the current state of the extruder? Is it "stable"? Does it use extra parts? Is the version on the Prusa site the one to use?
The one on the Prusa site is the current stable release, extra parts, still a PIN and a flag.
Hi @CaiJonas,
Busy start of the year, new Dad 👏👍
No progress on design apart from further testing on my now MK2.5S which is working flawlessly 🤘👍
Link update https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/7690-tzb-mk3smk25smmu2s-extruder-mmu2s-no-tower-v2
A bit confused - you changed something? What? Is it just for the 2.5?
On Tue, Feb 18, 2020 at 3:57 AM Robert McKenzie [email protected] wrote:
Link update
https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/7690-tzb-mk3smk25smmu2s-extruder-mmu2s-no-tower-v2
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Could maybe make magnet-pockets a bit tighter. Works wonders so far! Have not looked (maybe done), turn hole for pin 180 degree in new placement. Add some meat around filament entrence to hide threads just for the look ;) Otherwise perfect! Suppose thats the reason this thread is so quiet....
It's been working well for me. I feel there's a chance that the adjustment screw should stand a bit more proud to ensure you're in the adjustment range, the fan shroud is a little easy to monkey up, the pin is pretty hard to get into place (bump could be smaller)... But the only real show stopper is that the flag is marginal. It sounds like others haven't seen it but it has been consistent between versions for me that the flag needs work. It doesn't seem to cut the beam perpendicular to it, so it goes on-off-on. I have yet to have one printed without mods that just worked.
The lever should have a bit more flat space to make sure it doesn't hit pin. It would be nice to add a bump/feature so the wire holder off the back doesn't rotate about its sole mounting screw.
Anyway, yeah the thing works and works well - it's a serious upgrade and it is both what Prusa should have done and something they should change to. Frankly, I'd hate to see them try, look what they did with my filament buffer idea?! Here's the lever I used. The flag is a hint too tall and is trim to fit - you can see the cut away area on the pin side. I'm no STL editing hero, I find them terrible to work with, but it gives you an idea - I tried to attach it. :-)
On Tue, Feb 18, 2020 at 11:41 AM kajsilander78 [email protected] wrote:
Could maybe make magnet-pockets a bit tighter. Works wonders so far! Have not looked (maybe done), turn hole for pin 180 degree in new placement. Add some meat around filament entrence to hide threads just for the look ;) Otherwise perfect! Suppose thats the reason this thread is so quiet....
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Hi, I'm using TZB firmware: 2.1.8-TZB77 commit 2386 with MM-control-01-2.1.8-RC2.
I have a Prusa MK3 bear full, not a S type. Can I still use the newer TZB firmwares on it or I need to upgrade my MK3 to MK3S and my MMU2 to MMU2S to use the newer firmwares.
Thank you
Hi, I'm using TZB firmware: 2.1.8-TZB77 commit 2386 with MM-control-01-2.1.8-RC2.
I have a Prusa MK3 bear full, not a S type. Can I still use the newer TZB firmwares on it or I need to upgrade my MK3 to MK3S and my MMU2 to MMU2S to use the newer firmwares.
Thank you
Can I edit the configuration_prusa.h and change the #define IR_SENSOR to #define PAT9125 and use the MK3S firmware on the MK3 and still use the MMU2S firmware ?
Sorry @sergiofagundes, been a busy few days. No the latest FW is not configured for the PAT91XX sensors anymore, a lot of code changed to support the IR_SENSOR which doesn't translate to the laser sensor.
Sorry @sergiofagundes, been a busy few days. No the latest FW is not configured for the PAT91XX sensors anymore, a lot of code changed to support the IR_SENSOR which doesn't translate to the laser sensor.
Hi, I'm now printing you new designed extruder for MK3S and will update the new firmware.
Is the manual bowden length calibration still necessary or it's like the original prusa mk3s mmu2s that calculates automatically the tube length ?
Thank you
I have converted to the MKS3 using the TZB new extruder and new firmwares from TZB, but can't pass the calibration after the lcd shows to use a paper... the firmware goes down and stops with a calibration failure. Some one can help with this ?
Open a thread and we can discuss @sergiofagundes
Is the mmu Bowden length calibrated already?
Any recommendations for a prusa bear full mk3s carriage and x axis compatible for this extruder on thingiverse ? Thanks
Hi @sergiofagundes,
I have not used any bear upgrades sorry mate. It is the same mount as stock PRUSA extruder so if the upgrade you find is compatible with stock the. You should be fine.
I'm working on modifying R6 Extruder(sneak peak) with my NO-TOWER and reduced filament path (yes R6 filament path is still not as tight as my last extruder design and I will be keeping this aspect for those that want less trouble with FLEX printing.
